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Chef’s Kitchen
Each month we bring a guest chef into our Chef’s Kitchen column to give us a
tip that elevates their cooking (and hopefully ours). They also provide a recipe
that showcases their tip. Our guest chef this month is Executive Chef Giles van
der Bogert of Ponti Seafood Grill. Ponti has been a Seattle favorite since it
opened in 1990. Owners Richard and Sharon Malia are long-time Seattle restaurant
industry insiders, opening The Snug in 1972 and Malia's Northwest (aka Mrs.
Malia's) in the late 70s. Ponti continues to charm Seattle-ites and visitors
with its wonderful views of the Ship Canal and beautiful art-filled rooms.
Giles
began working at fast food spots when he was 15 and started
cooking weekend dinners at home with his dad at 17. He attended
culinary school at Edmonds Community College while working at a
pizza parlor and a catering company. After culinary school, he
worked at Ponti from 2003-2006, starting in pantry, moving to
saute and then lead saute. He left to help open Hotel 1000/BOKA
Kitchen + Bar and quickly took over the banquet operation. When
the executive chef position opened at Ponti, he moved back to
the familiar kitchen, this time at the helm. Growing up in the
Northwest, Giles has always believed in Ponti's mission:
celebrating the bounty of the Northwest by using local
ingredients sustainably farmed, fished, raised whenever
possible.
Use citrus to brighten dishes
By Executive Chef Giles van der Bogert
I love to use citrus fruits to bring liveliness to a dish,
especially a wintertime meal. A squeeze or two of lemon or lime juice can
brighten up dull sauces or soups, highlighting inherent flavors. I add orange
zest to gremolata for a citrus “pop.” I use lemon zest or lime juice in
marinades, salad dressings, breadcrumb crusts for fish. Using citrus zest or
juice is one way to “cut” through dishes that have a bit of fattiness and bring
out additional layers of flavor. For example, simply adding a dash of Meyer
lemon to home made whipped cream is a great way to add another flavor dimension.
When buying, choose firm and bright fruit and avoid any
with dull or soft patches - this indicates they are past their prime. If you are
planning to zest, it’s best to give the fruit a rinse in warm water to remove
wax or dirt. To extract the maximum juice, roll citrus fruit around on a flat
surface, pressing down firmly with the palm of your hand, this is especially
useful for hard-to-squeeze limes. Use juice the same day for full flavor. Some
citrus fruit juices like Navel oranges should be used immediately as the juice
will turn bitter quickly.
Ponti Seafood Grill
3014 Third Ave N
Seattle,
WA 98109
phone: 206-284-3000
Click here to see
Giles' recipe
March 2009
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