Sea Breeze Farm

By Emily Mercer

When George Page acquired his first chicken twelve years ago, he had no idea that his desire to bring a degree of self-sufficiency to his life would result in a full-fledged farm specializing in meats, cheeses and wines that are sold in markets across Seattle, a fine dining restaurant on Vashon Island (La Boucherie) and butchery courses held in his main market. The success of Sea Breeze Farm is not based on advances in farming technology or years of experience, but rather on Page’s desire to return farming to the way it was for hundreds of years, before it became an industrialized system.

Photo by Matthew Williams

The Farm
Page is no more your typical farmer than Sea Breeze Farm is your typical farm. A native of Washington state, he did not grow up on a farm or have any farming experience before moving to Vashon Island. He has a degree in physics from the University of Washington, and worked as a software engineer before buying that first fateful chicken a dozen years ago. He explains that physics and farming are not that different; after all, they both revolve around problem solving and a need to know and understand all the world has to offer. Farming involves knowledge of finances, business, weather, biology and animal physiology amongst myriad other subjects. It is, as Page puts it, a "microcosm of the human experience."

Page became very interested in providing the highest quality food for his family. Along with his wife Kris and young daughter, he acquired more chickens. Chickens led to pigs and goats, and then cows; it wasn’t long before he was making his own dairy products and meats and selling them at local farmer’s markets.

Photo: Kristin (by Clare Barboza)

It seems strange to call Page’s form of farming unconventional when it is based on pre-industrialized farming methods that were the standard for hundreds of years, yet to those of us in the public–who have been raised on the hormone-rich, chemically-fueled frozen meats pumped out by huge corporate farms whose animal welfare is minimal–it is a very atypical method.

Page is a highly-intelligent man; his intelligence is matched only by his passion for clean farming and doing things himself. He speaks in an eloquent voice that makes me think I would have been equally fascinated had he been explaining to me the history of dry wall. He shies away from buzz words like "locally grown" or "natural," words that are now splayed across even fast food billboards, instead referring to his method of farming as "pre-industrial, traditional, family-based agriculture." All the pasture animals, like cows and sheep, are grass fed. While many other grass fed farms feed their cows grains for the last several months of their lives to fatten them up (removing much of the nutrients in the process), the cows of Sea Breeze Farm are grass fed their entire lives, right up to the moment of slaughter. All the animals eat what they would eat in the wild. No hormones, chemicals or anything unnatural is ever added to their bodies.

For those who value the kind treatment of farm animals, this place is ideal. There are no small pens with hundreds of stressed chickens smashed together, no veal calves lashed to a tiny wall so they can’t turn around. As I wander around Sea Breeze Farm, it is surprisingly quiet. The chickens and pigs are walking around like they own the place. Page’s handful of cows are nowhere to be seen; they are out grazing on the roughly 100 acres available to them.

Photo by Matt Wright

Page only breeds one type of cow and chicken, explaining that having two types, one for meat only and the other for milk/eggs, is a very recent development in farming. His farm dates back to a time when there was no distinction between dairy and meat cattle. He raises Milking Shorthorns, a breed known for having a richer, more concentrated milk, but also for producing much less of it, a reason why industrial dairy farmers steer clear of them. Originally created to be a dual-purpose breed, the Milking Shorthorns also yield high-quality beef. All dairy products sold by Sea Breeze Farm are raw (unpasteurized). "When you only have ten cows you get to know each cow individually," Page explains, "You know what’s going on physically with each cow." When cows are confined, they can develop respiratory problems, an illness which affects their milk quality. Having a small farm increases quality of life for everyone involved, from the cows and chickens to the people who consume them.

Butchery By Hand
If you’ve ever wondered what it was like to be a butcher, now is your chance to experience it first hand. Fall through spring, Sea Breeze Farm invites you to their "Butchery by Hand" courses, an approximately five-hour course that includes lunch with the staff. Taught by local butchers Brandon Sheard, Thom Barkes and Lauren Garaventa, the class starts with a whole pig that attendees will butcher entirely, learning every cut of meat and also what to do with it, such as curing bacon or making pancetta or pâtés. It’s a great way to understand what goes into creating the fabulous meats that Sea Breeze Farm offers at their markets.

The Markets
You’ll often see George along with a few of their ten employees at local farmer’s markets. They take pride in being able to deliver their products (which are dry-aged and never frozen) right from their farm into your hands. "It’s about knowing your farmer, knowing your producer," Page says. Most of us have no idea where our food really comes from, but it appears that a lot of people are turning to small family farms for their next meal. Support for Sea Breeze Farm has been overwhelming, with a steady band of loyal followers who line up to buy their products. Staples like raw cow’s milk and cream, eggs, pork chops, pâtés, sausages, cured bacon, roast pork and home-made wines are almost always available. Turkeys will be available this month for your Thanksgiving feast. You’ll find them at the University District, Ballard and West Seattle Farmer’s Markets every Sunday. If you’re lucky, La Boucherie’s head chef, Dustin Calery, will be there to give you cooking ideas for whatever products you buy.

November 2011

Watch for our upcoming story of the restaurant, La Boucherie, in next month's issue.