Dry Fly Distilling

Picture Bill Murray in Caddyshack doing background on his own golf swing, muttering "It’s a Cinderella story" and you’ll have an idea how Kent Fleischmann and Don Poffenroth feel about their success with Dry Fly. In a state where liquor laws are a labyrinth, they have become the first distillery in Washington since Prohibition. Not only are they distilling, they have managed to get legislation passed to allow for tasting and sales at the distillery.

Photo: Don (left) and Kent examining the product

Don and Kent met ten years ago at a food industry event. Both worked in marketing, merchandising and brand development. Realizing they shared a passion for fly fishing, they began meeting annually to fish in Washington and Montana. Four years ago on the Gallatin River, they talked of corporate burn out and the need for creative outlet. "Don came up with the idea of having a brew pub," recalls Kent. "We realized we’d be in the restaurant business and had to say no." A year later on the Gallatin, Don talked about the craft distilling movement. "We’d be making liquor—we’re in; we’re doing this," laughs Kent. They began building the concept.

In May 2007, Kent and family moved to Spokane. He and Don rented space, began jack hammering the floor and putting in drains—"anything we could do ourselves." They did lots of book work, attended seminars and took an extension course from Michigan State University on distilling. "Once you understand the math and science behind this, it all comes together." They also began working with a still manufacturer in Germany.

Photo: home of Dry Fly

It seems odd to go to this much effort before getting a license to distill. And there’s the rub. You have to build it first before the Federal Government will take a look and approve a license. The State Government won’t look until you’ve been approved by the Feds. "They do a 20-year background check on you and look at bank records for the past 15 years," explains Kent. "People told us it couldn’t be done, but the State has been really helpful. When they’d say no to things, we’d go back, find out why and try it again." Once licensed, they had to make product and convince the Washington State Liquor Control Board to buy. "We’ve done a lot of pioneering to make this come together. People are calling us the 80 proof Lewis & Clark," laughs Kent.

Recipe-wise, they knew what they did/didn’t want. Many distilleries will buy neutral grain alcohol from ethanol plants. Don and Kent wanted complete control over flavor. "We want to determine how the flavor comes out," explains Kent. "With the right equipment, you can eliminate fuesal alcohol, which is what causes headaches, without filtering." They wanted the product to go from farm to bottle, so they met farmers from the Co-Ag cooperative (25 miles from Spokane), rode combines and cut wheat. Bags are sent from the cooperative to the distillery every other week. "By filtering less intensely, you retain the sweetness of the wheat," says Kent. "We didn’t set out to create a sipping vodka, but it’s turned out that way."

Photo: Kent in the combine with farmer Brian Tiegs

Redistilling vodka through botanicals is how they have chosen to make gin. "Since we want to be a Northwest company using Northwest ingredients, we get 99% of our ingredients from Washington and the rest from Oregon." They get juniper, Fuji apples, coriander, lavender, mint and hops from small farmers. "Dryness comes from the juniper and a soft finish from the apples," explains Kent. When ice is added, the juniper softens, allowing other flavors to pop up.

"The recipe was almost perfect the first time," says Kent. "We wanted to add more of one ingredient, so we redistilled it, adding that one thing. Then it was perfect. We’re a little superstitious, so we still do it wrong each time, then redistill with that extra amount. We’re not efficient in that way and we bottle and label by hand. That’s the way we want it; we don’t want to be a giant."

In the last Senate and House session, with help from lobbyist Arlen Harris, they were able to get legislation passed that defines what craft distilleries will be in this state. It was an uphill battle. With other huge issues being decided, this legislation could have easily been put off for a later session. But when senators and representatives understood that at least 50% of ingredients used by distilleries will need to be indigenous, it became an agricultural process and interest increased. The governor headed to Spokane to sign it into law. As of July 1, Dry Fly has been able to offer tastings and sell their product from the distillery. "Within the next two years, you’ll see three more distilleries in the state," says Kent. "We’ve paved the way."

Growth is good and bad. We both left corporate America to eliminate the headaches in our lives," says Kent. "We wanted to fish more. That just isn’t happening. We take turns making and selling the product. This first year, we made 3,500 cases. We have equipment on order to arrive mid-August that will allow us to double production. We’re on the verge of hiring our first employee. We number every batch and sign every bottle as a way of keeping this personal." They currently sell in five states and ship to a company in Chicago which has 21 liquor outlets and can ship to 25 additional states. Kent and Don are working on selling to California and Colorado as well as more states back east. As marketers, they just had to create gear (hats, t-shirts, golf shirts) for sale, as well as having custom-made fly rods at the distillery. "I just can’t stop," laughs Kent. "But we want to keep our fly fishing roots clear."

At the June 2008 Los Angeles International Wine & Spirits Competition, Dry Fly won the gold medal for packaging design (Overall Package). The design was done by HL2 in Seattle. In the Spirits Best of Category, they won a bronze for both gin and vodka. It’s a Cinderella story.

Connie Adams/August 2008

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