The Skinny on Beef

How to find it, judge it and cook it!
Part 2

In our last issue, we talked with Brad Dickinson, Executive Chef for all the Schwartz Brothers full-service restaurants and catering, and Larry Heigaard, Meat Specialist for Metropolitan Markets. We covered the issues of quality and grade with them. This month, we hear from them about different cuts and how to get a restaurant-quality meat experience at home.

Cut

About 76 percent of a beef carcass comes from four major cuts: round (tail end), loin (sirloin and short loin next), rib and chuck (chest and back near head). The other 24 percent comes from the bottom side of the carcass and is made up of the flank, plate, brisket and foreshank (see chart). 

New York, Porterhouse and tenderloin steaks come from the loin area and prime rib and ribeye come from the rib area. These high-end cuts are called the “middle meats” and make up about 20 percent of the carcass. In addition, there are premium cuts within these larger categories and are the most sought-after cuts and, consequently, more expensive. For instance, a tenderloin weighs 5-7 pounds. Within the lower end of the tenderloin are the center cuts. In the strip loin there is a nerve that can get tough, so if you want the best, you need to ensure that the steak is cut below the nerve.

“Daniel’s serves only center cuts from the middle meats,” says Brad. “Within that range, it’s once again about personal taste. Our biggest seller is the filet. I think people find it familiar and know it will be tender and good. Daniel’s is the only restaurant in the city to serve a prime grade filet mignon. But when I have a steak, I go for rib or New York; there’s more flavor and texture, which I like.”

Names of cuts can get confusing. For instance, “prime rib” is the name of a cut. When you order prime rib, it may not be USDA Prime grade beef. Brad explains that names also tend to be regional. In Seattle, we have the New York strip. In Kansas City, the same cut is the Kansas City strip. A Spencer steak can also be known as a ribeye. Tenderloin is also filet mignon. Regulations in King County require that the primal has to be in the name on the package. As Larry explains, “'Spencer’ is considered a fancy name. In King County, the package has to read ‘boneless ribeye steak.’ It can say Spencer as well. The idea is that it helps the customer from being fooled. Without the regulation, someone could call a piece of meat a Spencer steak but it could be a lesser cut of meat.”

You hear a lot about Kobe beef now. This started in Japan where animals are fed a special diet and actually massaged to reduce their stress levels. These genetics have been brought to the U.S. and you’ll see “Kobe-style” on menus. Keep in mind that if it’s a Kobe burger, you’re probably getting chuck and not a middle meat.  Metropolitan Markets also sell American Kobe beef. They sell only middle meats—loin and rib—in this category. “Kobe is not graded in the U.S.,” says Larry. “The Japanese rate it much higher than USDA Prime. There’s nothing lean about Kobe beef. Kobe comes in three categories—silver, black and gold.” 

To confuse things further, when cuts of beef are cooked with the bone in, they are often called something different. Daniel’s has added a bone-in New York steak to their menu, but they call it a Delmonico. They’ve also added a bone-in Prime prime rib. “We’ve tested again and again and feel that cooking with the bone in really is better,” says Brad. “It enhances the natural flavor of the beef.”

Some general guidelines:

• Rib steaks have lots of marbling and are very flavorful.
• Bone-in New Yorks have good marbling and dense texture.
• Tenderloin (filet mignon) steaks are more tender than flavorful (very lean).
• Porterhouse steaks are cooked on the bone and have the best of both worlds—the flavor of the New York and the tenderness of a filet. 

Shopping and Cooking

Bottom line when shopping is to find a butcher you trust. Let him or her know what you are looking for and they can guide you to the right cut. Not all stores carry everything. “The consumer needs to get the right product for what they’re doing,” explains Larry. “Certain cuts you would never roast or cook all day. Others are perfect for barbecuing or grilling. Tell the meat cutter what you’re planning and they’ll help you find the right cut. A lot of packages now have stickers on them that say ‘Excellent for broiling’ or ‘oven roast’ to help customers buy the right cut.” If you don’t know the primal name (i.e., boneless ribeye), tell the butcher the name you know it by. “Most meat cutters have been in the business a long time. If they hear something unfamiliar, they’ll want to figure it out,” says Larry. “If a customer can describe it, we’ll walk around with them and find it. Then we’ll both know.” 

Theories abound on the best way to cook steaks. Because Daniel’s cooks steaks at 1800 degrees with both top and bottom cooking immediately, Brad is a firm believer in cooking over the hottest fire at home, whether it’s on a barbecue or under a grill. “People shouldn’t be afraid to season steaks,” says Brad. “Use kosher salt and ground black pepper. Lawry’s is a good seasoning. It has a hint of sugar in it and at high heat caramelizes and puts a crust on the steak. Always use an instant-read thermometer (you can get them for about $5)—120 degrees is medium. Pull the steak out and let it rest. It will continue to cook, plus this allows the juices to settle. That will give the steak a better texture.” 

Metropolitan Markets has a vast library of recipes they share with customers. “You can find recipes at the kiosks in all our stores,” says Larry. “We cycle through all the recipes every week or so. If you’ve seen a demo at a kiosk or heard about a recipe, ask someone at the store. They can get the recipe for you.”

As with any other food, there is no right or wrong choice in terms of taste. Try various cuts and find the texture and flavor that suits you. Talk with the butcher at your store about the recipe you’re using to get the right cut. At restaurants, ask the waitperson about the cuts on the menu. At high-end restaurants like Daniel’s, they’re trained to know all the details. Pair with fresh vegetables and a favorite wine and sit down and enjoy.

Summer 2005

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