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Guest Chef on the Waterfront Winner!
Executive Chef Jason McClure from Sazerac
Each
year at FareStart’s Guest Chef on the Waterfront, Seattle DINING!
sponsors the judges table. These dedicated foodies manage to taste each
and every item prepared by the participating chefs and, no easy task,
pick a winner in the appetizer, entrée and desert categories. One of
those three winners is voted best overall. After the event, we publish a
story about the overall winner. This year’s winners were: Bell Harbor
Chef Jay Bartleson with his sweet bay scallop with heirloom tomato
relish; Sazerac Executive Chef Jason McClure for his ricotta gnocchi
with sweet corn, cured bacon and truffled grain mustard sauce; and Il
Fornaio’s Chef Franz Junga for his crème all romana—Sambuca soaked
sponge cake with espresso mascarpone cream and lingua de gato cookies.
As you’ve deduced from the headline, the overall winner was Sazerac
Executive Chef Jason McClure.
Photo of judges taken by Tom Mehren
Front row, l-r:Nancy Leson (Seattle Times), Cheryl Quist (Rhone
Rangers),
Chris Nishiwaki (freelance writer).
Back row, l-r, Rebekah Denn (food writer), Connie Adams (Seattle
DINING!),
Jay Friedman (freelance food writer), Ken McCabe (Zefina Winery),
Matthew Amster-Burton (food writer), Shannon Borg (Seattle Magazine)
Sazerac and Executive Chef Jason McClure
Sazerac and Jason have been involved with FareStart for
six years through their Guest Chef night. For the past three years,
they’ve been part of Guest Chef on the Waterfront. "It’s such a fun
event to do," says Jason. "The location is great and it’s got that
indoor/outdoor feel. Normally, I like to talk to guests, but this year
we cooked gnocchi to order, so I spent most of my time with my head
down." Clearly, the attention paid off.
Jason chose the gnocchi recipe because it’s a comfort food that
people love. "The trouble with gnocchi is that you have to make
traditional potato gnocchi about a million times to really get it right.
So I developed ricotta gnocchi which is much more bullet proof." The
gnocchi moves on and off the Sazerac menu and the recipe changes
seasonally. "In August, I was doing a spinach and gnocchi version, but
at other times of the year it might be corn and bacon or squash and
mushroom," Jason explains.
Jason’s
parents met and lived in Europe so there was always a food affinity in
their home. He loved food and the experience of eating: it would seem a
clear path. Instead, he was 3-1/2 years into his photography major at
Northern Arizona University when he decided to take a job to make some
extra money. A friend got him a job at a high-end French bistro working
pantry. After a week, he was hooked. "The chef took me under his wing.
With my art background, I saw food as another medium and loved the
presentation," recalls Jason. "I told my parents I’d made a mistake and
wanted to go to culinary school. The vein started throbbing on my dad’s
forehead. They were clear that I needed to graduate in something.
Fortunately, Northern Arizona had a good hotel management program, so I
switched my major, stayed an extra year and received a B.S. in hotel and
restaurant management."
Photo: Executive Chef Jason McClure (taken by Evan Johnson)
After graduating, he contemplated going to the California Culinary
Academy in San Francisco. Weighing the cost, he decided to keep working
at restaurants for awhile. He stayed in Arizona, working at a few more
French bistros, a Southwest/French classic technique fusion spot and a
couple of rustic Italian pizza spots. One of the chefs he worked with
took a job in Minneapolis. Jason followed and they built the restaurant
from the ground up, bringing the Southwest to the Midwest. He stayed for
nearly four years in Minneapolis.
Looking for a change in 1997, he decided on Seattle where his sister
lived. He bought a "Best Places" book and walked around dropping off
resumes. He walked into the nearly-new Sazerac on a Friday at 4 p.m.
Executive Chef Jan Birnbaum talked with him and said "Can you start
today?" He could. He worked as a cook at breakfast, lunch and dinner and
at all stations. After a year and a half, he was promoted to sous chef
and then executive sous chef under Executive Chef Kevin Davis. When
Kevin left to open Oceanaire, Jason became the executive chef. "It’s
unheard of to stay this long in one place in this industry," says Jason.
"I thought about owning my own place, but have a daughter who is nearly
four. When she was born, I was thinking more about stability. And
Kimpton is a great company to work for and has treated me well."
Jason has started to focus the Sazerac menu on American regional
food. "We did more Creole and Cajun foods and people loved it. Once a
year. In order to really keep people coming back, we needed to lighten
up the food. We’re concentrating on the regional aspect and a strong
beverage program. We’re doing some really good things. We’ve had a great
response to our happy hour. We have a standard menu, but when we get
something fresh in during the day, we create something for the bar menu.
It’s great for regular customers who want their standards but also enjoy
something different from the last time they came in. The bar menu is
very value oriented."
Photo: Sazerac dining room (taken by Evan Johnson)
If you haven’t visited Sazerac in awhile, it’s time for a return
trip. Look for the gnocchi. We hear it’s a winner.
Connie Adams/October 2009 |
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