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Entertaining in the Northwest Style
Chef Greg Atkinson creates menus for special occasions
As
you might guess, a cookbook titled "Entertaining in the Northwest
Style" focuses on what is regionally available in our various
seasons. Chef Greg Atkinson takes it a step further by creating full
menus to enhance Northwest moments like the return of the salmon in
spring or brunch on a boat.
Some people read cookbooks like novels; this cookbook actually
includes stories at the start of each menu, making it a very personal
book. As an example, a menu for high tea in the garden starts off with
stories of Greg and his wife Betsy’s early years in Friday Harbor. This
is what Greg says about a sandwich Betsy created: "It was a simple
thing—just a variation on a grilled cheese sandwich. But when the cheese
is blue, and the sandwich is layered with shredded leaves of fresh
sorrel, and when the whole thing is served with hot tea in the cool
breeze of a sunny afternoon in late spring or early summer, then the
world is a bright and beautiful place. And when the woman who serves it
to you is the love of your life, and she smiles, and maybe even laughs a
little, as you crunch through the toast and feel the sour, buttery tang
of the sorrel, then you want to experience it again and again." You have
got to like a man who feels this way about his wife and who connects
everything—weather, emotions, taste, memories. His stories make it a fun
read.
After each story, he gives you some general information—"The Day
Before," which tells you the steps you can take the day before your
event, "On the Table," suggestions on types of dishes, flowers,
etc., "What to Pour," wine-pairing suggestions, and "Make it
Simpler," how you can simplify recipes or ideas when you don’t have
the time to do it all from scratch.
Recipes are clear and Greg gives some nice descriptions that help you
visualize what he means. An example is making dough for whole wheat
butter crackers. "Fold the rectangle into thirds, like a letter…"—we all
know how to fold a letter.
He also explains why he puts certain things together, which is
helpful in the learning process (i.e., when might I do something like
this again?). For Thanksgiving dinner, his menu consists of a turkey
with Madeira pan gravy with cornbread and oyster dressing. Prior to his
gravy recipe, he provides some history on Madeira and explains "Here it
provides a perfect flavor bridge between the cornbread and oyster
stuffing and the brined turkey." If you love to cook, it’s not enough to
simply recreate a recipe. You want to know why things are put together
in certain ways—what was the chef thinking? This book speaks to those
questions.
Entertaining in the Northwest Style
A Menu Cookbook
Greg Atkinson
Published by Sasquatch Books |
To make it even a more personal book, each menu was cooked and
photographed at friends’ homes. Greg was able to understand what it
would be like to recreate his menus in different kitchens (and tweak
them as necessary) and the photographs have more meaning than just being
beautiful pictures of food.
"Entertaining in the Northwest Style" is a celebration of life
through food and an inside look at one of the Northwest’s talented
chefs.
(Click here to find
halibut and
farmers
market vegetable recipes from Greg's book)
Connie Adams/June 2006 |
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