Recipes of the Month from Thierry and Trader Vic’s
Make something that takes your taste buds on a trip
With this month’s articles on the new cookbook from
Rover’s and the return of Trader Vic’s to the Northwest, we’re pleased to be
sharing recipes from both. From Thierry, we learn how to make a wonderful dish
of striped sea bass, very popular in France. Trader Vic’s shares the perfect
happy hour combination—Scorpions by the pitcher and barbecued spareribs.
 ROVER’S—Thierry
Rautureau and Cynthia Nims
Whole Roasted Striped Sea Bass with Fennel, Moroccan
Olives, and Thyme Vinegar
Makes 4 servings/Loup de mer (sea bass) is one of the most
beloved fish in France, typically cooked rather simply to show off its
distinctive delicate flavor and texture. Striped sea bass from the mid-Atlantic
is another of my favorite fish for similar reasons, and it makes a good
replacement for French sea bass, which can be hard to find in U.S. markets.
Recalling its Mediterranean roots, the loup de mer in this recipe is accented
with the rich flavors of fresh fennel, briny black olives, fresh thyme, and a
splash of Pastis. Plan time to allow the fish to marinate for at least 4 hours
before cooking.
Wine suggestion: Chateau de Beaucastel 2001 Chateauneuf du
Pape Blanc, France
2 small whole striped sea bass (about 1 pound each) ¾ cup
olive oil 10 cloves garlic, finely crushed 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves Sea
salt and freshly ground white pepper 2 fennel bulbs 1 cup Moroccan olives,
pitted 1/3 cup Pastis or other anisette liqueur 1 tablespoon thyme vinegar or
red wine vinegar
Garnish
Fennel fronds Chopped fresh chives and/or chervil Blanched
finely diced yellow bell pepper Blanched finely julienned red bell pepper Basil
oil (see below)
Rinse the sea bass well, especially the belly cavities,
under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Put the bass in a
shallow dish and drizzle with ¼ cup of the olive oil. Scatter the garlic cloves
and 1 tablespoon of the thyme over the fish and inside the cavities, and season
each with a pinch of salt and pepper, turning the fish over to coat evenly.
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or preferably
overnight.
Shortly before serving, preheat the oven to 350ºF.
Trim the stalks from the fennel bulbs and discard (or save
to use in making vegetable stock), reserving some of the tender fennel fronds
for garnish. Halve the fennel bulbs lengthwise and cut out the tough core.
Separate the layers of fennel, trimming away any tough or browned portions. Cut
the fennel, with the grain, into ¼-inch thick slices.
Transfer the fish to a large ovenproof skillet and put ¼
cup of olives into the cavity of each fish. Add the garlic (from the marinade)
to the skillet and drizzle the remaining ½ cup of olive oil over the fish.
Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of thyme, season with salt and pepper,
then scatter the sliced fennel on top of and around the fish. Roast until the
fish is just cooked through (the flesh should look opaque rather than
translucent) at the thickest part, 25 to 30 minutes, spooning the cooking liquid
over the fennel and fish a few times to keep it moist.
Transfer the olives from the bellies of the fish into the
skillet. Using 1 or 2 spatulas, carefully lift the fish onto a large plate or
platter and cover to keep warm. Add the remaining ½ cup of olives to the skillet
as well. Cook over medium-high heat until the fennel is tender and aromatic, 3
to 5 minutes. Add the Pastis, very carefully light the alcohol with a long
match, and flambé until the flames subside. Stir in the thyme vinegar and season
to taste with salt and pepper.
Peel away the skin from the fish and remove each fillet
form the backbone in one piece. Cut the fillets crosswise in half at a slight
angle. Form a circle of the fennel-olive mixture in the center of each warm
plate and lean 2 fillet pieces against the fennel, one to each side. Drizzle the
cooking liquid from the skillet over the fish and garnish to one side with
fennel fronds. Sprinkle the fish with chives and diced and julienned bell
pepper, then add a drizzle of basil oil all around the plate.
Basil Oil
Makes about 1-½ / This is a great use for basil that is
starting to wilt a bit and no longer in prime form for garnishing a plate but
still has plenty of flavor. We also make chive oil, following the same
technique. Blanch the chives for just 15 seconds and chop them a little more
finely before blending to prevent the chives from wrapping around the blender
blades.
1 ounce fresh basil leaves (about 1-1/3 cups loosely
packed) 2 cups canola oil
Trim away the stems from the basil leaves. Bring a
saucepan of salted water to a boil and prepare a bowl of ice water. Add the
basil to the boiling water and blanch until tender but still bright green, 30 to
60 seconds. Drain well and plunge the basil into the ice water to chill it
quickly and thoroughly. Drain again and pat dry with paper towels.
Coarsely chop the blanched basil and put in a blender with
the canola oil. Blend at high speed until very thoroughly pureed, at least 10
minutes. If the base of the blender jar becomes warm, turn off the blender and
place the base of the jar in a bowl of cool water to cool it down, then dry it
off well and continue blending. The extended blending will give the oil the
maximum basil flavor possible. At Rover’s we blend for as long as 20 minutes.
Let the blended basil sit for at least 1 hour (or
preferably overnight in the refrigerator), then drain through a fine-mesh sieve
lined with cheesecloth into a bowl. Let the oil drain through slowly and
naturally (it will take about 2 hours; don’t press on the solids). The remaining
basil pulp can be used for pesto or added to tomato sauce, though it won’t be as
boldly flavored as fresh basil. Transfer the oil to a clean squeeze bottle or
other sealed container and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
 TRADER
VIC’S
Scorpions by the Pitcher—makes about 8 cocktails
1-¼ cups silver rum 1 cup orange juice ½ cup lemon juice 2
ounces orgeat syrup 2 ounces brandy 2 cups ice cubes, plus additional crushed
ice
Combine the rum, orange juice, lemon juice, orgeat syrup,
brandy and ice cubes in a 2-quart pitcher. For each serving, fill a double
old-fashioned glass with crushed ice, pour the mixture over the ice to fill the
glass and stir well.
Barbecued Spareribs—makes 8 servings
The secret to these succulent spareribs is curing them
quickly with a simple salt-and-sugar mixture. It makes the meat moist and juicy
and, as an added bonus, gives it an attractive bright pink color. Baby-back ribs
(as opposed to longer spareribs) are the perfect size for cocktail party
nibbling.
¾ cup sugar 2 tablespoons salt 2 racks pork baby-back ribs
(about 4 pounds)
Barbecue Glaze
½ cup hoisin sauce ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup Thai-style sweet
chile sauce 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 2
tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil ½ teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper ¼ cup sesame seeds, toasted, for garnish
In a large bowl or sealable plastic bag, combine the sugar
and salt and stir or shake to mix. Cut the racks in half or into thirds so that
they fit in the bowl or bag. Add the ribs and toss or shake to distribute the
sugar mixture evenly over the surface. Let stand, refrigerated, for 2 hours or
up to 4 hours. The sugar mixture will dissolve and the pork will turn bright
pink and release some of its juices.
To make the barbecue glaze, combine the hoisin sauce, soy
sauce, chile sauce, garlic, ginger, sugar, sesame oil, and pepper in a bowl and
whisk until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Preheat the oven to 300ºF. Remove the ribs from the sugar
mixture and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange on an aluminum foil-lined baking
sheet and brush both sides with about 1 cup of the barbecue glaze. Cover loosely
with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Bake the ribs, basting with the pan juices every 30
minutes, until the ribs are tender, 1-½ to 2 hours. If the pan gets too dry and
the juices begin to burn, add up to 1 cup of water and scrape and stir to dilute
the caramelized sauce. Remove from the oven and let sit, covered with aluminum
foil, until ready to grill.
Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to medium hot. Grill the
ribs, turning and brushing with the reserved barbecue glaze, until dark golden
brown, about 25 minutes. Check the meat often, as the sugar in the sauce can
burn quickly. Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes.
To serve, sprinkle the ribs with the sesame seeds, cut the
racks into individual ribs and arrange on a platter. Serve hot, warm or at room
temperature.
Make-ahead strategy: you can prepare the ribs and bake
them in the oven as directed up to 24 hours in advance. Let cool and store in
the refrigerator. Allow them to come to room temperature before grilling on the
barbecue. They are best eaten soon after they have been grilled but you can also
keep the grilled racks warm on a baking sheet in a 250ºF oven for up to 1 hour,
slicing them into individual ribs just before serving. You can also serve them
at room temperature.
December 2005
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