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Once in a rare while you find a place that is underappreciated but so ready to be loved. 35^th Street Bistro is one such place. Opened in April 2004, they’ve gone through several chef changes, but have never lost sight of what they are—a neighborhood bistro. In August of 2005, owner Bob Day hired Chef Steve Smrstik and the Bistro has hit its stride. Reasonable prices; great seafood; interesting dishes like elk sausage, but also classics like steak au poivre, cassoulet and risotto; a large wine list with lots of European choices, but finds from Australia, New Zealand, California and Oregon as well; and a tasty weekend brunch.

Bob knew what he wanted in a chef and knew of Steve through his food and reputation. "Steve had worked at places I loved," says Bob. "And I’d heard that he wasn’t your average knife-throwing, fire-eating chef. I’ve since learned differently." Laughs all around.

35^th is a match from Steve’s point as well. "I was looking for a smaller place where I could be the emphasis behind the food. Teamwork is great and you always learn from others, but there’s a point where you want it to be yours."

Steve’s had plenty of training and teamwork. He grew up in the University District in a family with health issues. "We cooked from scratch, mostly with assistance from Julia Child," he laughs. At 15, he moved to Nevada and got his first job—at a "candy shoppe"—where he made sandwiches, fudge and brittle. He then moved to Reno and completed a one-year apprenticeship under a French chef. "He was totally French," recalls Steve. "He was chosen to cook for Queen Elizabeth when she toured France."

Steve also had a four-month apprenticeship at Harrison’s Bakery in Seaside, Oregon. He entered the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park and completed the two-year program. From 1981-85 he worked in Manhattan, New York. For three and a half years, he worked at Grammercy Park’s La Columbe d’Or. At one point, he was sent to Long Island to work at the Fish House at Sag Harbor, a 350-seat restaurant. The chef there took off somewhat unexpectedly and Steve was left in charge. Also during the New York years, he worked on riverboats and in a micro biotic restaurant.

At the end of 1985, he returned to Washington and found work as a cook at Place Pigalle, then spent nearly four years at The Pink Door. He started as a cook and moved into the chef position with a small prix fixe menu that changed weekly. From there, he opened a small bakery in the Mount Baker neighborhood that lasted about a year-and-a-half until the partnership disbanded. He moved to the Painted Table at the Alexis Hotel, ultimately taking on pastry for the Alexis, Vintage Park Hotel and Tulio (all Kimpton properties). He did a brief stint at Seattle Catch and then moved to Flying Fish where he stayed for seven years, starting as one of the sous chefs and rising to chef de cuisine.

How has all this background impacted the 35^th? "I’m over the ‘small and tall’ food era," Steve laughs. "No one needs to stop at Dick’s on the way home from here. We’ve expanded the menu and have a much larger variety of food than there was before. I’ve also created dishes that are delicious but easy for others to cook so guests get a consistent experience." Bob adds "Steve has managed to put into place what I’ve wanted to do all along. In my travels, I’ve always loved the small, European restaurants. They show a sensitivity to the food, table, wine. He’s pulled it together for us. His experience with fish has improved the quality of our seafood offerings. He’s very inventive."

The bar and brunch are also underappreciated. Brunch has developed over time. "We offer a full lunch menu and about six brunch items," explains Bob. "A lot of care has gone into it—it’s delicious and inventive." The bar is small and really part of the dining room. Off to one side, it holds several tall tables and chairs and a few counter seats. The bar area is used for more than just bar business (the espresso machine resides here as well) but, again, this is fairly typical of a true bistro. "We love to see people drop by for a glass of wine or a cocktail and have some small bites or a meal in the bar. It’s all part of the neighborhood feel where people come by often and use it to fit their schedule. Maybe just a bite and a sip one day and a meal with friends later in the week," says Bob.

Now that 35^th is where they want it, the next move is to open up the basement area of the 1906 building. "We want to have space for banquets, private events or overflow dining on weekends," explains Bob. We’ll stay true to the building’s character—there will be brick walls, a wine cellar and chandeliers."

Fremont neighbors have figured out they have a jewel in their midst, but we think it won’t be long before under-appreciation turns into a love fest for others as well.

February 2007

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