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Elliott Bay Brewing Company

Serious brews and buds

Let’s just get it out of the way right now—Elliott Bay Brewing Company (EBBC) is a lot like the fictional Cheers bar in Boston. You may not hear anyone yelling out "Norm!" when someone walks in, but this is a real neighborhood pub that boasts long-term friendships and even a marriage or two. Clearly, it’s a nice place to hang out. But there’s more to it than that. They have a serious focus on high-quality pub food (they’ve recently hired Chef Kerry White formerly of McCormick and Schmick’s and FOX Sports Grill) and, if possible, an even more serious belief in crafting good beer. After nearly ten years in West Seattle, they’re opening a second location in Burien.

Photo: GM Michael Goldsmith, Executive Chef Kerry White, West Seattle Chef John Finneson on an unbelievably sunny February day in West Seattle

Todd Carden and Brent Norton, original owners, worked together at Maritime Pacific Brewing Company. Todd had always been passionate about beer and crafting it in-house, preferably in his own pub. They scouted lots of locations before settling on West Seattle. It wasn’t only about the pub and beer, they were serious about investing in and building community. "They wanted to be a community focal point," explains Kerry, their new Executive Chef. "And that’s the plan for Burien, as well." Burien General Manager Michael Goldsmith agrees. "I’ve been with EBBC since 2000 and knew Todd and Brent from working at Maritime Pacific. The idea of community keeps coming up. In fact," he laughs, "you may get a little tired of hearing that word from us."

West Seattle was quiet ten years ago. EBBC was at the start of the turnaround and has seen the neighborhood blossom. Both owners are hands-on parents and wanted to have a place where families were comfortable and kids had menu choices. As Michael explains, "It’s more like the pubs in the British Isles that are generational. No one’s there to get liquored up; they’re just hanging out." EBBC participates in local school auctions and an annual golf event that benefits the West Seattle food bank. "It’s a place where friendships are born," says West Seattle GM Liz Knutson who has been with EBBC since 1999. "It’s a safe place for women to come alone, have a meal and talk with people. One person told us they ‘…didn’t feel like going out, so they came here’—we’re an extension of peoples’ living rooms."

Local art is hung on the walls and changed every two months, according to Tim Pew, an employee/artist who manages the art program. "Some art is by pub regulars," explains Tim, "and some by other local artists. It really adds color to the pub." They also work with other West Seattle businesses, like Husky Deli. They provide the wort and Jack makes malt-flavored ice cream that they use alone or to make Stout sundaes and floats (No Doubt Stout).

Besides local involvement, they look at the larger picture as well. Biodiesal is used in their vehicles, they work with Seattle City Light on using low-energy lights and they compost. They offer organic teas and coffee. Their spent grain is picked up by a farmer and used in making bread.

Food and beer are 90 percent organic. The malt used is organic and most other grain is organic as well. They never stop creating and have won two gold medals and a bronze at the Great American Beer Fest. As serious as this sounds, they’re always looking for a good time. The Dark Star Porter came out of the Happy Monday Grateful Dead Nights where Dead Head garage bands would come and play. Todd and brewer Doug Hindman (another Maritime Pacific veteran) travel to Europe to drink beer and talk about where they want to go next with their beers. But always, the beer and food complement each other. "The Luna Weizen goes well with steamed clams and Caesar salad," says Kerry. "The Pale Ale goes with everything and the IPA goes with spicy things like chili and barbeque."

It’s no surprise that Kerry has come on board at EBBC—she’s a long-time customer. As the Burien plans came along, she was asked to help with the growth process. John Finneson is the chef in West Seattle and Kerry will be the chef in Burien. She brings experience in openings and remodels as well as her chef and administrative skills. She spent nine years at McCormick & Schmick’s Fish House on Fourth, starting at prep and working up to executive chef. "They have a great structure," Kerry says. "They taught me how to implement." She then spent a little over three years at FOX Sports Grill before moving to EBBC.

As Kerry explains, "I’m fine-tuning as far as the menu goes. John Finneson has done a fabulous job. It didn’t used to be a scratch kitchen and it is now. West Seattle has a very small kitchen—it’s amazing what is produced in that space. The beer we produce can’t be found anywhere else, so we really have something unique to offer. Most of the favorite menu items will be offered at Burien, plus there will be some new pub-driven items. Everything new will complement the beer and fit into what EBBC does so well."

The second location has been in the works for some time, but just like the original, it had to be the right spot at the right time. Burien fit the requirements: it’s starting to really grow and there are unique businesses starting up. The space is kitty-corner from the Town Square project. "We have almost 17,000 square feet of space," says Kerry. "It will hold the pub, kitchen and a full-on beer production facility with a tank farm for aging and serving. There’s even a spot where the floor is cut out and people can see into the brewery." Brewer Doug Hindman will move to the Burien location. Brewer Chris Hemminger (yet another Maritime Pacific alumnus), who came on board in July 2006, will run the West Seattle brewery.

Photo: Brewer Chris Hemminger in West Seattle, courtesy of Dawn Hemminger

EBBC is still experiencing double-digit growth after ten years—a remarkable achievement. With their loyal customer base, dedicated crew and a new location, they’re sure to be around a long time. But don’t wait to see; just get out there and have a chat over a brew and good pub grub!

Connie Adams/February 2007

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