Joule/Revel/Quoin

Dining out, whether a special occasion or a quick bite on the run, should be fun; food has become entertainment as well as being sustenance. Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi have got you covered on both fronts.

In 2007, they opened Joule in Wallingford offering a changing menu of dishes that are globally inspired. "Our food isn’t fusion," explains Rachel. "I grew up with Korean, Chinese, Japanese food. It’s what we know. We understand the flavors, so it’s easy to create combinations. With backgrounds in French restaurants, it makes sense to use all our experience. Fusion can be scary because it may not be familiar. You have to base your dishes on something understandable. And modern cuisine is just going back to the classics and making it new. The type of food we do is different; it’s casual, fun and adventurous."

Both chefs have great kitchen experience. Late culinary bloomers, Seif attended the University of Illinois in business before attending Western Culinary in Portland. He wanted to work for the best, but it took awhile to get his externship at Alain Ducasse in New York. It paid off when they hired him full-time. Rachel attended Brown University in urban studies, then realized it wasn’t what she wanted. She attended the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City. "I fell in love with the dynamics of the kitchen," she smiles. "It’s like the Army. The team works hard and gets close. You prep all day and then it’s a different show each night." She worked at Daniel Boulud’s DB Bistro Moderne for 2-1/2 years then moved to Alain Ducasse. It was here she and Seif met—two of about 20 people working closely together in one room each night. "I’m more of a serious cook and all about perfection because I felt I had to prove myself ," she says. She was one of two women in the kitchen. "Seif has taught me that cooking is more than just work. It should be fun. He’s always making jokes and loves talking to customers. We’re a good balance."

In 2006, they got an offer to open Coupage in Madrona where they introduced Korean cooking with French technique, earning rave reviews. "It was rare in New York then and very fresh in the Northwest," recalls Rachel. They parted company with the owner about six months into the run with a good sense of what Seattle diners liked. In April 2007, they married (their son was born in July 2010).

It was in Wallingford that they learned how to be restaurant owners. "We planned to have our own place by the time we were 35. We got the opportunity to open Joule when we were 30 and felt it was the right time. We looked at a lot of places, needing something to fit our budget as well as our idea of an open kitchen. When you work in the kitchen so many hours a day, you want to be right there with your customers and see what’s going on." The location already had a kitchen so they were able to get the keys in October 2007 and open on November 2. From the beginning, they got great reviews. "The difficulty is that you read great things, but some nights there would be five people in the restaurant. Chefs thrive on making people happy with food. When no one’s there, it’s sad and easy to lose your creativity. We had to learn how to deal with those nights." Patience pays off and Joule has a loyal following in the neighborhood and beyond.

Photo: Joule's octopus, taken by Jackie Donnelly Baisa

Creating different menus has drawn people in repeatedly. In summer, they hold urban barbecues on Sundays, offering different types of barbecue from around the world. They started a winter supper series where they offer seven dishes family-style. And now they are offering "the best soup in town" each Sunday. It might be cassoulet or goulash, and you get a meal built around the soup. "Some neighbors come in every Sunday and if they’ll be gone, they let us know," laughs Rachel. "It’s really nice."

Creating Revel and Quoin has been a way to expand while having more fun, although Rachel is happy the craziness of opening is behind them. "We’re two people, so we felt we could handle another restaurant. We’ll take turns working at each spot. We want to keep the food we’re doing but have more fun with it, offering comfort food, which is usually starch. We use vessels that carry the unique combinations we create; we use dumplings, rice, salad, pancakes, noodles—things that are timeless." Wanting no barriers between cooks and diners, the kitchen is against a wall with a wide wooden counter in front where diners sit and feel part of the kitchen. Simple chairs and tables fill the room. "It’s a place where you come to relax for lunch or dinner in a very casual setting. It’s street food."

Photo: Revel's 5 Spice duck meatballs, taken by Jackie Donnelly Baisa

Joule serves beer and wine and they wanted to offer a good cocktail. Since Revel’s Fremont space was larger than they originally wanted, they created a bar, Quoin, at one end. The full menu is available in the bar. "Quoin has its own personality and character," says Rachel. "There are about 17 seats and a stand-up bar with a table in the middle." Along with standard cocktails, they offer soju, a distilled rice wine with a clean flavor like vodka but an added floral component from the rice. "We put interesting, edible garnishes on these drinks," says Rachel. Revel and Quoin opened December 17, 2010.

Both restaurants offer unique flavor combinations and a fun experience. "When you’re feeling adventurous and want us to really take care of you, Joule is your spot. When you want easy comfort food in a very open, casual environment, it’s Revel. We’re excited about the different experiences we’ve created—let us feed you!" At either spot, you’ll enjoy something you can’t have at home. And isn’t that what dining out is all about?

Connie Adams/January 2011

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