HOME  |  SUBSCRIBE FREE  |  AD RATES  |  SEARCH

Our culture is one where more is better, faster is better, newer is better. In many ways, that attitude has moved us forward and created great value. But there is also great value in the time-tested, traditional and simple. Madison Park Café is a wonderful example of exactly that. They have stood the test of time, 30 years, because they offer traditional, simple French bistro fare in a calm, lovely atmosphere where people relax and enjoy good food and wine.

"Bistro food has always been simple," says owner Karen Binder. "In early days, women had very small kitchens, so they’d find a larger communal space where they could cook together. We haven’t strayed much from this concept over the years. I like the real thing. I want it to be right." While new places grab the spotlight, Madison Park Café quietly continues to offer classic food, linking their menu to the seasons and using local products. They’re not stuffy or un-changing, simply traditional.

Karen herself has not led the traditional life. She received her graduate degree in molecular genetics and worked in the scientific field until the Café opened. She lived in Geneva, Switzerland, for a year before returning in 1978. "I’m really too gregarious to be in a lab," she laughs. "But I think my scientific background is what makes me a good cook and baker. I know what needs to happen to get the right reaction."

In June 1979, she and friend Peggy Stamm purchased a failing tea room in Madison Park. They were a Starbucks house, selling espresso machines and coffee by the pound. There were few tables and a bar in the middle of the room where they sold gourmet candy, 20 types of tea, strainers and other coffee/tea paraphernalia. They offered simple breakfast and lunch items. "We got tired of selling coffee. It was too hard to be in the middle of making breakfast and have to stop to weigh coffee," recalls Karen (pictured at left).

When they first opened, Peggy had two young children. Karen had recently married and then become pregnant. They did what most mothers do—managed their work lives around the family, running carpools before the Café opened and after it closed, never offering dinner because they were home with the kids. "Like most mothers, we felt we weren’t spending enough time at home or work and weren’t doing anything well," Karen says. (Editor’s note: Also like most mothers, they were probably much too hard on themselves. Karen’s children helped out in the Café when they were old enough and still occasionally do so even though Sarah is 28 and teaching kindergarten in Hawaii and Jake is 20 and attending college at USC.)

In the early 80s, they started a gourmet to go business where they made gourmet items for people to use as quick-and-good meals at home. "This idea was ahead of its time," recalls Karen. "In Geneva, everyone did this. But people here didn’t buy pre-made food then. We took out the counter, added tables and stuck with breakfast and lunch. We were using the courtyard back then, too. Only one or two liquor licenses had been granted in Madison Park and we had to get enough neighborhood signatures on a petition to get one for the Café."

Eleven years ago, Karen bought Peggy out of the business. She closed for breakfast and lunch, continued brunch on weekends and offered French bistro dinners, the kind she was used to having in Geneva. "I hired a real chef and busied myself with wine education," she says. She attended the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, taking eight or nine wine courses. "Wine is really where my interest lies and I love talking about it with guests and educating them on why certain wines traditionally go with certain foods."

Karen travels to Europe annually, visiting markets and seeing what’s happening. She’s seen more change in the U.S. than in Europe over the years. "You have to realize that 30 years is a huge chunk of time for us considering the age of the U.S. But 30 years in Europe is a drop in the bucket," she explains. "When we started the Café, I was used to croissants, great baked items and wonderful coffee. It didn’t exist here. We had the first espresso machine in Madison Park. You can see the change! We have a coffee culture here now and although there isn’t an abundance of European pastries, they are available, along with good bread."

Another change Karen sees is the culture of chefs. Seeing chefs as public personalities is typical in Europe. That culture has now come to the U.S. "Wine and food pairing is very hip now," says Karen. "It wasn’t when we first started. With more imports, we can find better wines than we used to. It’s also much easier to find more diverse foods and interesting produce; things that are hormone-free or organic. That’s a big change over the last 30 years."

Throughout the Café’s history, catering has played an important role. They cater many business events, Bat and Bar Mitzvahs and neighborhood parties. She provides food for many of the Brian Carter Cellars events. Although a small restaurant, Karen likes to give back to the community, getting involved with fundraising events and having someone stage (French for work for free) in the kitchen. "It’s time consuming to have a novice in the kitchen, but it’s one way we can help people," says Karen.

For the Café’s 30^th anniversary, Karen has added a $30 prix fixe dinner menu and offers 30 bottles of wine for under $30. Beginning Monday, May 4, 2009, the Café will have "First Monday of the Month" wine tastings with plates of food paired with wines. Check their website or call for information/reservations. She will continue her every-other-month wine dinners. Her constant search for great value French wines has led to not only a great wine list, but frequent requests from customers to buy wine. She recently got her retail license and now sells single bottles for dinner at home as well as cases of wine.

Like great wine, the Madison Park Café has aged well. It looks and feels youthful, but has the depth of experience to offer a seamless experience. It’s a tradition we should all take time to appreciate.

Connie Adams/May 2009

  Return to the HOME PAGE       This online magazine is a production of Mixed Media.