Milagro Cantina

As in Mexico, things can move slowly in Kirkland. That’s actually good news because the outcome is Milagro Cantina ("miracle" in Spanish). Owner Stuart McLeod is in the continual process of developing his Kirkland property (which also includes Hector’s) and Milagro Cantina is another piece he has put in place. Last May, Chef Chris Peterson began consulting with Stuart, coming on board full-time in June. Director of Operations Jason Harris officially arrived on the scene in September. The restaurant opened December 9, 2010. The first miracle is that they chose to take their time in order to get every detail right.

Photo: Chef Chris Peterson and Director of Operations Jason Harris

The second miracle is that we have an authentic Mexican restaurant with traditional dishes and modern street food from across Mexico. It’s not Spanish, Tex-Mex, Southwest; all recipes are original and come from Chef Peterson’s travels through Mexico and major US food cities. "I’ve done tons of research, dissecting what’s out there and talking to other chefs," says Chris. "I lived in Mexico for almost four months after I got out of the Marines. And I’ve spent 15 hours a day destroying my home kitchen. We make everything in house with the exception of the bread which comes from a Mexican bakery. We use local items where possible, and some product comes from Mexico." While dishes are authentic, presentation is taken up a notch and high-quality ingredients are used.

Value is the next miracle. They have created a beautiful space with a fire pit, comfortable chairs, handmade bar stools, radiant heated floors, seating for 300 (including the patio), fun artwork, a room with fireplace that can be used for private dining (40-60, 63" flat screen TV and fully wired) and a chef’s table that seats 8 for special dinners or that can be used for buffet set-up for a private party. Add attentive, professional service and you expect the price point to reflect the experience. Instead, you can stop in for $3-4 tacos or sopes for $8. Even the lobster and octopus tostada is just $15. "It’s important to us that we provide a great experience for everyone no matter what they spend," says Jason. "We want Milagro Cantina to reflect Kirkland—it’s casual. Our servers wear jeans. In the summer, customers will be in t-shirts and flip flops. We don’t offer fine dining service, but it is sophisticated and casual."

Photo: Milagro Cantina dining room (photo courtesy of Milagro Cantina)

The combined talents of Chris, Jason and Stuart work well. "Stuart is a visionary," says Jason. "He is so good with details, sees the big picture and is outside the restaurant industry and sees things that Chris and I might not." Chris has worked at independent restaurants throughout his career while Jason has a corporate background.

A latecomer to cooking, Chris started washing dishes at Renee’s American Bistro in Ithaca, New York, while in college after his Marine Corps stint and time in Mexico. Owner Renee Senne is a master chef and mentored Chris, moving him to prep then to the line. It took just three weeks on the line for him to fall in love. He dropped out of school to cook full-time. He saw Seattle as an up-and-coming food city and loves the outdoors, so he sent resumes and made two trips out. After a New Year’s Eve dinner at Campagne, he was knocking on the door looking for an interview. He eventually met with sous chef Jim Drohman. Jim hired him to work in Café Campagne where Chris and the rest of the team worked hard to bring the Café up to the standards set by Campagne. "Jim has had a huge influence on me. It was a great place to work." He worked his way to sous chef and stayed 4-1/2 years, leaving for Bis on Main in Bellevue. He stayed 5-6 years, left to become a private chef, realized he loves the craziness of the kitchen and returned to Bis for another year, helping to create the Bis cookbook. Stuart was a Bis customer; a mutual friend put them together for Milagro Cantina.

Besides being a bat boy for a Phoenix baseball team, Jason has always been in the restaurant business. His father obtained the second franchise in the US for Red Robin (RR) and moved the family to Phoenix from Seattle. At 11, Jason was bussing tables. At Arizona State, he played baseball until hurting his knee. He’d been working at RR when a GM position came up. He was 23. He took the job, loved it and quit school. RR had an intensive training program they sold to franchisees. Jason used it and became a spokesperson for RR Corporate, eventually taking a job in the main office in Bellevue. He stayed about a year. "One day I realized I was just done with the birthday song and refilling fries," he says. He called his father who told him the hot new thing was PF Chang’s China Bistro. At RR, Jason talked with a guy seated at the bar who was opening the Bellevue PF Chang’s. Jason was on the opening team and primed to open Seattle. Then came 9/11 and they said "no more stores." Eventually the Bellevue operator opened the Seattle location and Jason took over Bellevue. One of his customers was Chris Peterson. When Jason felt he’d accomplished what he’d set out to do, he moved on to Hotel 1000 as Director of Food and Beverage. After a year, Chris called and told him about Milagro Cantina.

Photo: Tequila tree in Milagro Cantina bar

Another miracle is the 90-stall, monitored self-parking lot between Hector’s and Milagro Cantina, free for customers of both. They’re looking forward to summer which will bring a whole new dynamic. "With 100 seats on the patio, it’s almost like opening another restaurant. The whole front corner opens up, along with side windows," says Jason. Milagro Cantina’s happy hour and dinner business have been strong from day one. Lunch is building as people realize they’re open and have free parking. Permitting allowing, they’d love to put an outside bar on the patio. There’s much to enjoy now and more fun to anticipate.

Connie Adams/February 2011

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