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Ponti hit the ground running in 1990 becoming one of "the" places to be, offering then little-known fusion cuisine. Before it opened, Chef Alvin Binuya met Ponti co-owners Richard Malia and Jim Malevitis. They knew they had found their opening chef. While Ponti was being built, Binuya worked at Adriatica, also owned by Malevitis. Binuya brought a background rich in experience: Rosselini’s Other Place, Hotel Sorrento/Hunt Club and Café Sport. With his knowledge of food from his native Philippines and travel to Hawaii with Richard and Sharon Malia, his fusion cooking took shape.

Photo: Chef Binuya on one of Ponti's patios

As a child, he was surrounded with natural food. "I took an early interest in cooking and good food when I was 8 or 9," says Alvin. "My parents always prepared meals with the best possible ingredients they could afford and food they raised in their garden. My father singlehandedly built our home on a fruit orchard on Vashon Island. My mother allowed me free reign in the kitchen." He attended the culinary program at South Seattle Community College and, after working at Rosselini’s, Washington State University’s hotel and restaurant management program. "Through culinary school, I got a foundation in classic cuisine. This foundation applies to most styles of cooking throughout the world, so it was an important part of my education. On-the-job training gives you the rest: seeing different styles of food and preparation, work ethic, camaraderie and the important role of team building." He learned his lessons well, becoming the banquet chef at the Hotel Sorrento/Hunt Club at the age of 20.

"As I worked in various kitchens, I learned that you are only as successful as the least experienced member of your team. The importance of coaching, mentoring, teaching and motivating can’t be overstated," Alvin says.

After being recruited to Café Sport and working directly with Tom Douglas for three years, Alvin took a several-month hiatus in the Philippines. It was on his return that he met the Ponti owners. He was able to design the kitchen and menu for the new Ponti and stayed from 1990-1997. Malia and Malevitis opened Axis in Belltown in 1997 and Binuya oversaw both kitchens. In 2001, he moved full-time to Axis. It was also 2001 that the restaurant partnership split up and Malia took 100 percent control of Ponti. Binuya stayed at Axis until 2005 when he left to open his own restaurant on Bainbridge Island, Madoka. "My career trajectory at Axis was past its prime and it was time to move on. The opportunity to open Madoka arose and I wanted that challenge. Starting a new operation is a clean slate with nothing tested or proven. Every decision you make is a critical one which will leave its mark even if adjustments are made. The heightened level of excitement of a new restaurant is incomparable. I also had greater involvement with the floor staff and training, wine and liquor purchasing, bookkeeping and finances."

He closed Madoka in September 2009, but didn’t wait long for his next opportunity. Richard Malia had always appreciated Alvin’s skill and had stayed in touch over the years. He jumped at the chance of bringing him back to Ponti, this time as part owner as well as chef. "Alvin is truly one of the most creative, inspired and best chefs in the Northwest," says Malia. "It is wonderful to work with someone who shares my passion for local farms, products and wild, non-endangered and sustainably-caught fish."

For Alvin, it’s like coming home. "It really feels as if I’ve been on an extended vacation," he says. "The kitchen fits like a glove. There are still a few staff members here from before and I recognize some of our customers from the early days."

Photo: Richard Malia (left) and Chef Alvin Binuya (right)

Alvin’s focus since returning has been to determine the direction the new menu will take. "It is important to recognize and please our loyal regulars while understanding that the menu needs to be rejuvenated. It is a tricky balance to create a makeover without alienating guests who come back often for certain dishes," explains Binuya. "First and foremost, we’re consistently ensuring a high-quality product with sustainability in mind. Prices and portion sizes were in great need of adjustment to ensure fair menu pricing and correct operation costs. Menu items will also feature a higher percentage of seasonal items, so I see more of a movement toward a continually evolving menu throughout the year. We’re also looking at a more streamlined bar menu and a better-defined Café Ponti menu." The good news for guests is that while quality remains high, most prices are coming down. "We want to offer the high quality expected from Ponti while adding value and being competitive in the marketplace," explains Malia.

The return of Binuya is a win. Alvin’s back in the kitchen he designed, Richard has a chef/partner in sync with his vision and guests are on the receiving end of a rejuvenated kitchen turning out high-quality, interesting and simply delicious food. Welcome back, Alvin!

Ponti Seafood Grill 3014 Third Ave N Seattle, WA 98109 206-284-3000 www.pontiseafoodgrill.com

Connie Adams/January 2010

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