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Let’s just admit it—there are a lot of restaurants in the Puget Sound area. So why should you pay attention to an out-of-the-way new place in Bothell? Let me count the ways. Russell’s Restaurant & Bar is owned by Russell Lowell of catering fame. He’s doing for casual upscale restaurant dining what he’s done for catering and that says a lot.

If you’ve been to a charitable event over the past ten years or attended a catered event, you know all about Lowell-Hunt catering. Recently, Jonathan Hunt headed off on his own to experience "other food opportunities" and Russell has hit the ground running.

Photo: Owner/Chef Russell Lowell

Catering business is brisk; the group meets weekly to figure out how they’ll do everything (they always succeed). The catering location on Fairview Avenue in Seattle is lovely with a large room indoors looking over Lake Union and a tented area outdoors surrounded by flower and herb gardens Russell planted himself. Russell is just as involved with charitable events as always. He finds it hard to say no and has found himself involved at three in one evening. He also owns and runs the Garden Café at Molbak’s in Woodinville which has been a big success.

Obviously, he needed something more to do. "Even if I work 100 hours a week," Russell says, "as long as we’re laughing and making something better, it doesn’t feel like work. What’s hard is not the work. Dealing with city ordinances is hard. We’re in Seattle, Bothell and Woodinville and they all want something different. It’s difficult to make things happen quickly."

His concept for Russell’s Restaurant is simplicity. "I wanted it to be earth-like with simple things we already have. So many new places are perfect. I wanted this place to feel like it had been around awhile." The Monte Villa area is former farmland and the restaurant is located in a large, white barn structure. As you walk in, you have the feeling of being in wine country. The room is long with exposed ductwork above. Old wood doors are used to give the feeling of separate dining areas. Two fireplaces give a homey feel. Artwork includes works that Russell has collected over the years.

Photo: Russell's Restaurant & Bar courtesy of James Rawson

The overall feeling is one of casual elegance. As Russell explains, "I want people to see that this place has intellect, that there’s something to it. I’m looking for a more sophisticated crowd; people who love good food and wine." If that description screams high prices to you, you have a nice surprise coming. Calling it a "wallet-friendly menu," Russell has priced the menu very reasonably. "People are tired of spending more than they need to on food and fighting for a place to park. I offer excellent quality in a much calmer setting."

His appreciation for simple things and using what you have comes from his family background. He spent eight of his early years living on the ocean in Cuba where he and his dad dove for fish. His grandfather was an orchardist in Sebastopol, California, and his mother’s family were farmers and started the Gurney Seed Catalog. The family lived off the land—grow it, kill it, use it all. "Living in different places was exciting because there were always new foods to try. You learned from other cultures about using everything when you cook," says Russell.

He tells the story of learning patience in the mangrove swamps, sitting motionless to watch the fish flying through the water like flocks of birds. If he didn’t catch anything, he’d eat his bait. "I was a kid and it was sundried and tasted sweet. I’m sure I never saw any printed material that said ‘not fit for human consumption’," he laughs.

Russell talks about how much he’s learned from his extended family and his five brothers. "My grandfather gave away about 90 percent of what he grew," says Russell. "We used what we needed and he made sure the neighbors were taken care of. He didn’t have to think about it, he did it because it was the right thing to do and he was a steward of the land." With six boys in the family, everything was shared and nothing was wasted.

Although he thought he would become a dentist, his early jobs were in restaurants. At a French restaurant in San Diego (now gone), he worked for an old-school chef who was brutal in his criticism. "I learned quickly that I should own up to what I did and move ahead," says Russell. After years of working in restaurants, he tired of being led by people who thought they knew food. They may have been good at business or presentation, but he felt he had more to offer on the food front.

He wouldn’t go to a bank or get investors. "I don’t buy it if I don’t have the money," he says. Starting a restaurant was too expensive, so he started a catering business. "You get the job, you do the job, you get paid. Then you have money to do the next job." Now that he’s at the top of his catering game, he’s looking at ways to grow the company. "I love to cook. Even as we grow, I’ll want to be in the kitchen. With a restaurant, you’re taking care of the every-day Joe. He’s the one who keeps you alive. The minute you forget he’s your friend, it’s over."

His love of and curiosity about the natural world, hunting, fishing and growing will continue to keep his menu fresh and intriguing. We just need to sit back, relax, enjoy his food and stories and keep an eye on what he has in mind for the future. It’s a good ride.

Photo: Russell hunting small game in an urban environment

Connie Adams/May 2006

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