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This beautiful lodge has had several names since it was built in 1906, but two things remain constant—the incredible falls and a high-level food and beverage experience. Executive Chef Roy Breiman and his team have raised the bar yet again, offering a dining adventure that pleases local, regional and international guests.

"Philosophically," says Roy, "we believe in sustainable agriculture, organic farming and a seasonal, respectful approach to food. This is the core of what we do—no farmed fish, well-respected sources of food and appreciation of each season. There’s a different feel here at various times of the year; in spring and early summer, it’s colorful and vibrant. We use herb flowers and produce from local farms like fava beans, baby beets and English peas. As fall approaches, we’ll use cinnamon, star anise and nutmeg. The whole ambiance changes."

Salish staff all have the same focus—high-level execution that provides an unforgettable experience for their guests. "We’re very conscious about what we do," explains Roy. "We want to feel the rewards for what we do, but that only happens through service to others."

Beyond a fresh and vibrant menu, Roy has instituted other programs that make dining at Salish a truly special experience. Their chariot of cheeses (upwards of 28 cheeses on any given night), is extremely popular. The dining room captains are very knowledgeable about the cheeses and help walk the guests through their choices. "We concentrate on unpasteurized, seasonal cheeses. It’s a very comprehensive look at cheese; we share information about how the cheese was blended, where animals were raised and the type of food they ate. We have cheese made from sheep, cow and goat milk as well as various combinations. There are different ripening processes; we have younger cheeses as well as more aged cheeses. We sell a lot of cheese," laughs Roy.

You would expect good coffee, but once again this experience is on a new level. "I have always loved coffee," says Roy, "and wanted to share the unspoiled experience of coffee from regions all over the world." As with cheese, you can learn the detail of the coffee you’re drinking—soil content, elevation of growth, the process of production, etc. "We do a cinnamon roast. It leaves the bean slightly brown and keeps the oil inside the bean. We then blend it before putting it in the French Press tableside." Along with the coffee, they serve an international sugar tray. You’ll find rarities like birch syrup from Alaska along with sugars from Thailand, England, France and Madagascar.

With this much effort going into cheese, coffee and sugar, you know chocolate cannot be far behind. "We get chocolate from master chocolate makers all over the world—Trinidad, Venezuela, France, Tanzania, Switzerland. The real proof comes from the blending of cocoa; the origin of the beans and the blending process," says Roy. The a la carte dessert menu offers a World Chocolate Plate that holds seven different small bars of chocolate all with different cocoa content. Or you can choose the hot chocolate pot—warm cream beat tableside and poured over the chocolate to melt it, then served in French porcelain.

The wine cellar now holds 10,000-12,000 bottles with about 1,850 labels. Sommelier Mark Kieras helps keep the intimidation factor down with his knowledge of the wines and menu. Salish has won the Wine Spectator's "Best of Award of Excellence" for over a decade.

The combination of Roy’s background and personality brought him to Salish in 2003 and keeps his focus on this high-level, pure dining experience. He started his career in San Francisco/Sausalito working for at a 5-star restaurant. He went to New York then returned to the West Coast to work for Le Meridien Hotel Newport Beach. As chef de cuisine at their Newport Beach restaurant, he was not only the youngest chef to hold that title within the company, but also the first American.

He then headed to Europe, working for three years in Versailles, Nice, Monaco and Eze. He returned to the States as executive chef at Meadowood in Napa Valley. During this time, he promoted Napa Valley traveling to Germany, Holland, Seoul, Viet Nam, Thailand, the Caribbean, Beijing and through the U.S.

After a brief stint in Portland, he moved to Martha’s Vineyard to open a luxury 48-room hotel and restaurant, the Winnetu Inn and Opus Restaurant, designing the kitchen, menu and wine list. With family in Portland and Sonoma, Roy and his wife decided to return to the Pacific Northwest and found their way to Salish. "Having a good quality of life and balance is more important to me now," says Roy. "I have a creative outlet and I’m able to pass on the things I’ve learned to all of the team who help in producing the Salish experience. I take that relationship seriously."

Because of the time he’s spent in Europe, he has an appreciation of the value they put on the pleasures of food and wine. "I love my country," he says, "but Europeans are more effective about slowing down and enjoying things. They’ve had more time to get to this point. That will always be a part of me, even though when I’m here it always seems like I’m running from one thing to another."

He probably won’t be slowing down anytime soon. The Attic Bistro has become very popular. It’s much more casual than The Dining Room but is just as lovely with Brazilian cherry wood floors, a slate fireplace and fabulous view. The menu is less formal as well. Like The Dining Room, they offer a full service bar and wines by the glass or bottle. During the summer months (Memorial Day through Labor Day), the small patio café, Kayak Café, offers light salads and sandwiches.

Within the next 2-5 years, the 50 acres of land Salish owns above the parking area across from the lodge will be developed into a business-style hotel with 200-300 rooms. They will also build 100 homes.

Roy has just finished the menus for a series of Pacific Northwest wine dinners. Wineries are in place (right) and the dinners will be intimate—24 guests at each dinner.

In addition, there are the usual offsite events that Roy is part of and Salish is planning their own annual charitable event. Private dining is also offered in small rooms (4-10) as well as the larger Falls Terrace (up to 80).

Despite the number of things happening at the Lodge and the amount of building going on in the general Snoqualmie area, the Lodge still feels like a true escape. The spa was just voted 18^th in the U.S. by Travel & Leisure magazine. As Roy sees it, "We’re close enough, but remote enough. The Lodge has that Pacific Northwest style in its approach. You can feel yourself exhaling as you walk in the doors." Once you’ve spent some time at the Lodge and had a true Salish dining experience, you may never get your breath back.

Connie Adams/July 2006

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