Salty’s on Alki

Twenty-five years goes by in the flash of a fish’s tail. But our story goes back even further, to the origins of the building that Salty's occupies. A part of so many lives, it’s an integral piece of Seattle history.

Operated first by Novelty Mill Company, the building was constructed on concrete pilings and was a working flour mill from the late 1890s to the mid 1950s. It was one of the first flour mills in Seattle and had a wharf and 100 feet of berthing space. A five-story structure was added next to the building, but was eventually taken down. The footings are still under the parking lot. A local, Speed Winquist, bought the building simply because of its fabulous location. He leased it to a man who used it for car storage. Selma Rogers bought the property and turned it into a restaurant called The Beach Broiler, with the restaurant on the top floor and her living quarters below. After a number of years, Selma wanted to sell so she could retire and travel. Joyce Entus was interested in the opportunity to buy the property and business. She purchased the restaurant in 1948 and worked nearly every day for the next 28 years. She used the lower level of the restaurant as her living quarters the entire time.

Photo: Chef Bertil Hansson and Joyce Entus,West Seattle Herald, dated June 12, 1985

At that time, it was unusual for a woman to own a business, but that never fazed Joyce. The Beach Broiler became a meeting place for everyone from the Chamber of Commerce to local business people and workers from the nearby port. People came in for meetings, birthdays, anniversaries and special occasions. The lounge was a popular place to gather for sporting events as well, and everyone enjoyed the view. She worked with her staff "eight days a week, 25 hours a day," and loved every minute of it. When the original chef was ready to retire, Joyce hired Chef Bertil Hansson, who had trained in Sweden, and made him part owner. "The kitchen is so important," says Joyce. "You want someone in charge of the kitchen who will do a great job because they love what they do." Even then, Hansson and Entus insisted on the freshest fish, meats and produce. From the very beginning, The Beach Broiler menu and service remained consistent. Hansson brought his specialty, pan-fried sole, to the restaurant and it became the most popular dish, along with the oven-browned potato. One of Hansson’s criteria for a good restaurant was that the plate had to come out of the kitchen hot. "The girls had to wear mitts just to hold the plates," laughs Joyce. Hansson and his wife Britt-Marie retired and now live in Mill Creek.

In the mid 1980s, Joyce longed to travel and work less. As word got out, she had many offers for the property, including a number of local restaurateurs. She decided to sell to Gerry and Kathy Kingen. She appreciated their experience in the restaurant business and their relationship has become a long-term love affair. Kathy and Joyce lunch and visit frequently and Joyce adores their daughter Kate. Joyce may have sold to the Kingens in 1985, but for nearly 15 years, she continued to be the face at the front door, greeting regulars and newcomers alike. She fully retired from Salty’s in 2004.

Photo: Gerry and Kathy Kingen at Salty's

The Beach Broiler closed March 31, 1985, and the sale to the Kingens closed in June 1985. They remodeled extensively, converting the living quarters downstairs to banquet rooms and extended the upstairs dining room. The restaurant reopened on December 6, 1985.

Salty’s on Alki is one of three Salty’s Seafood Grills. The original opened in 1980 on the Willamette River in Portland. Gerry was using long restaurant names to snag people’s attention and called it Salty Pickerel & Angus McHereford. The public referred to the restaurant as Salty’s and the change stuck. The Oregon location was moved to the Columbia River near the Portland airport in 1987. A second location was added in 1981 at Redondo Beach in Des Moines, Washington. Alki has become the Salty’s flagship location.

Stay tuned for Part 2 next month.

Connie Adams/January 2011

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