Spinasse & Artusi
It’s all about the experience
 Spinasse
has just undergone an expansion to two rooms from one and added Artusi,
an aperitivo bar. Other changes have been occurring since Jason Stratton
(at right in Artusi) took over the kitchen as executive chef, but the
charm and intimacy remain.
When Justin Neidermeyer and partners opened Spinasse in 2008, Justin
asked his friend Jason to help "for a bit." "He let me write the wine
list, help design the layout of the menu and hire staff," recalls Jason.
"It was just what I was looking for—working with a small staff on a
quality project and focusing on the seasonality of the region."
He left for Poppy as one of Jerry Traunfeld’s opening chefs. "I’m an
intuitive cook. Jerry forced me to consider why I was doing what I was
doing. His way of tasting and experiencing food was challenging for me
in a good way—understanding every nuance of a dish. He let me do a lot
with the menu. My eggplant fries and some other dishes are still on the
menu. It was thrilling."
About eight months later, Justin began looking to replace himself at
Spinasse. "Justin didn’t love the daily grind of a restaurant. It was
hard to leave Poppy, but I wanted to head a kitchen." He became
executive chef in April of 2009 and a partner in 2010. "For me, it’s all
about the details, both in the back and front of the house. Guests
should feel cared for. It’s the small things as well as a great meal
that make that happen."
 Breaking
up communal tables was an early change. "I understand the fun of it, but
it can become a hurdle. People should experience the restaurant the way
they want." He moved away from tasting menus. "I don’t need to define
someone’s experience. You should be able to have a cocktail and snack
or a six-course meal. I started offering pasta in two sizes, the way
I experienced it in Piedmont. It’s a true middle course on the way to
the main. Although our menu remains deliberately limited, we have added
to our secondi, dessert and antipasti offerings."
Photo above: new room looking into original room and kitchen
Spinasse’s expansion was implemented for several reasons. "We’ve done
well, but simply didn’t have enough seats to always be profitable. We’re
also now able to dedicate seats for walk-ins. It’s hard to tell people
there is a two-to-three week wait for reservations. That might fly in
New York, but we don’t dine that way in Seattle. We wanted growth for
our employees as well, adding benefits and vacation time." The original
space feels the same and the new room adds 24 seats, including a counter
with a view to the kitchen. In addition, a glassed-in pasta-making area
was added.
When more space was offered, they didn’t want to create an even
larger restaurant. But they had a hankering for the beautiful corner
space with huge windows. "We wanted a bar where people could wait for a
table at Spinasse or come in for a drink and snack. We’re delving into
the aperitivo culture, which I adore. It’s about connections, catching
up with friends and the space you inhabit before you go out to eat. We
want to contribute to that idea at a reasonable price point. Artusi is
reflective of the diversity in our neighborhood."
Jason comes by his love and knowledge of food naturally and through
hard work. His mother was determined to eat well despite a lack of
funds. "We sacrificed things to ensure we sat down to dinner together;
the table was almost sacred," recalls Jason. "That tradition of social
eating made a big impression on me." At age 16, he got a dishwashing job
at Le Gourmand with Bruce Naftaly. One busy Saturday night, he helped
plate a dessert. Bruce saw his potential; Jason stayed off and on for
five years. "I never knew food could be like that. Bruce set my palate
in a certain way. Food through seasonality was another huge impression."
He left Le Gourmand for Evergreen College and took a job at Avenue One,
his first time in a high-volume kitchen. At 20, he was in charge of the
dessert program.
At school, he created a high-level research study-abroad project that
took him to Spain. He re-experienced social eating and loved the simple
plates of food. "It blew me away. This opened my eyes to the
Mediterranean and the culture of every day wine." He traveled, returned
for two more years of school, then went back to Europe. Holly Smith of
Café Juanita contacted him about a job. When he got home, it had been
filled. He took another job, but a month later, Holly called again. "I
felt it was disloyal to leave so soon, but sly, sly Holly said I
couldn’t say no before trying the food. It was over after my first bite.
I gave notice the next day. I started as a pastry cook and moved to sous
chef a year later. Holly taught me a lot about wine and service." Over
the years, he has returned to Europe to reconnect. While gone, he saw
the listing for Poppy. "I adored the concept and Jerry’s such a cool
person to learn from."
Jason’s holistic view informs everything at Spinasse and Artusi.
"Things mean more if you look at the whole picture. I gravitated toward
the open kitchen because I love to see food going from a raw state to
being enjoyed by someone. Seeing your meal being made adds to the dining
experience. I think about why what we eat has importance and get
inspiration from historic and current Italian cuisine. We still eat some
of the same things that were eaten in medieval times. It’s fun to geek
out in that way."
Changes will continue as Jason evolves. "During my first year here as
a chef, everything evolved to a different place. I’ve been in the
business a long time, but am young in terms of who I am; my cuisine will
continue to develop. We love introducing people to tastes they may not
know, whether it’s food or lesser-known wine varietals."
As if we needed a reason to return.
Connie Adams/July 2011 |
