Vino Ristorante Italiano

Rarely in life do we get to recapture something we’ve loved and lost. Salvatore Lembo and Santiago Pontenciano have returned Vino Ristorante Italiano in Renton to us; those who loved it can celebrate and those who never knew it can discover their Tuscan country cooking.

Photo: Santiago Pontenciano (left) and Chef David Zubia (right)

Salvatore originally opened Vino in July 2005 with Chef David Zubia, who had worked for him at his restaurant Firenze in Bellevue. Chef Zubia had worked with Mauro Golmarvi at Assaggio in Seattle from 1996-2001, then for Brian Scheehser in the Hunt Club at Hotel Sorrento, then at Firenze for a year. Vino was a Renton staple until 2009 when a number of issues made it difficult to continue. It closed to the dismay of its loyal customers.

Santiago started his restaurant career with Firenze about eight years ago as a busser and worked his way up to serving. He partnered with Salvatore to open Pizzeria Guido next door to Firenze. Deciding he needed a change, Santiago attended North Seattle Community College and graduated with an electrical engineering degree. At the time, there were no jobs available; he chose a different path, selling his house and traveling through Europe (Italy, France, all along the Mediterranean) and South America for a year. Being a food and wine lover, he absorbed the dishes and culture. On his return, he worked with Luciano Bardinelli at Ristorante Luciano in Bellevue for three years.

Salvatore still owns the quaint house where Vino had its run. He and Santiago began talking in January 2010 and decided it was time that Vino returned. By February 2010, it had reopened. "When I came to look at the restaurant, it was like it was ready to go," says Santiago. "They had literally just shut it down at the end of the last shift. All the tables were still set. All we really needed to do was a thorough cleaning and renewal." They both felt that the original menu still worked. After the first month, they found Chef David at Mona’s Bistro and asked him to return. "David has great experience with both French and Italian foods and makes wonderful sauces for the steaks, veal and osso buco. One of our specials is a French-style pork chop with fig reduction that people really love." They make their own Tuscan bread, most of their pasta, gnocchi, sauces and dressings in house. A wide range of pastas are offered including spaghetti Bolognese, fettuccine al porcini, tortellini alla panna, linguine frutti de mare and lasagna, along with their meats and seafood. They serve both lunch and dinner. "We want people to understand that Italian food isn’t just pizza and spaghetti. There are cows in Italy!," laughs Santiago.

Photo above: Salvatore Lembo

While fairly modest, the wine list offers close to 30 reds, over 10 whites and several sparkling wines, with a number of good glass options, all at reasonable prices. Focusing mainly on Italian wines, they do have Washington, Oregon and California options. Wine dinners featuring local winemakers take place fairly frequently and are listed on their website.

Built in 1937, the exterior still looks like a small home, but inside there are arched doorways, butter yellow walls and separate dining rooms that all work to create an intimate atmosphere. In addition, the outdoor deck offers casual seating. Without heat lamps, it is definitely weather dependent, but colorful umbrellas offer shade on sunny days. Upstairs, there is room for private parties up to 30. The space has its own bar and there is an even more private room with a table, couch and TV. Perfect for a very cozy party or small business meeting. To make it easy on guests, there is plenty of free parking in their own lot.

Photo: Vino dining room and entry

Although the past year has been challenging, their regulars are returning and new customers are finding them. Santiago has plans in the work for a happy hour that will take place on the deck, starting around the end of March and continuing through summer. "We’ll have small bites for people to share and wines so people can get familiar with real Italian food and wine," says David. "Please come try us!"

Vino Ristorante Italiano is located at 212 S 3^rd Street in Renton. Drop in, make reservations or plan your next party by calling 425-271-7042.

www.vinorestorante.com

Connie Adams/March 2011

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