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Executive Chef Wayne Johnson
A life of defining moments and connections
Wayne
Johnson’s road to Seattle and Andaluca Restaurant has been filled with
clear-cut moments that sent him in different directions and
relationships that popped up later to propel him on his way. Seattle
DINING! checked in with Wayne to get the full story.
The first seeds of interest in food were planted in college when he
worked at an Italian place. Delivering pizzas one night, he was robbed.
"And, yes, they took the pizza, too," he says. Clearly, a defining
moment. "I was done with delivering," recalls Wayne. He moved to the
kitchen, making dough and sauces. He watched the cooks and learned about
the moment a sauce is done, before the oil separates from the tomato. "I
was taking science at the same time and it all came together."
Moving to a meat packing plant, he spent a year driving trucks. If
anything went wrong, Elroy the supervisor would drive his white pickup
truck out to handle the situation. Wayne and the other young workers
would race through their runs, doing three times the work as the older
drivers. Wayne’s request for a transfer inside the processing plant
looked good.
Driving one day, he dropped a cassette tape. He bent to grab it; when
he looked up again, fencing was flying over his truck at an alarming
pace. Cows were running. The white pickup was on its way. When Elroy
arrived, he told him his transfer had come through and he wouldn’t tell
anyone about the fence. Wayne moved to the kill floor acting as a
prodder and then to quality control. A strike eventually ended his time
at the plant.

He applied at the Firehouse Restaurant in Windsor, Colorado, where
the owner, unbeknownst to Wayne, wanted out of the kitchen. Within a few
months, he was basically running the kitchen. After a year, he decided
to visit his brother in Vail. One day he met the Marriott recruiter and
was hired as an expeditor, a job that ensured the plates were right
before going to tables.
He kept his job at Firehouse, driving back and forth. Then winter
came. One day his truck started sliding downhill in the snow. Just a few
feet spared him from a horrible outcome. Another defining moment. He
left Firehouse, mastered the job of expeditor and watched the chef, Tom
Walker, who loved his work.
Limited staff were required for summer months. One day, one of the
cooks called in sick. Suddenly the kitchen was slammed. Wayne had been
saying he could cook, but no one had listened. He offered again as
orders backed up. He was turned down. Finally, he just went into the
kitchen and started cooking.
When they realized what they had in him, he was put into the Marriott
training program. "It was great. Instead of having to pay a college so I
could learn, they paid me to learn," recalls Wayne. "I thought if
I could have fun and cook, then I wanted to be an executive chef." With
that goal in mind, he figured out the jobs he’d have to learn and how
long he’d have to stay in those jobs before moving on and came up with a
ten-year goal.
Chef Tom transferred and a new, young chef came in. "He was a
tyrant," recalls Wayne. "There was a lot of yelling, but he was a great
cook. I learned that I had to take the good from a situation and not
lose the moment because of the bad."
Other
trainees worked at the Vail property, all waiting for their assignments.
Soon they were all gone but Wayne. Frustrated, he went to the tyrant
chef only to find out he’d been saving the best for last. Wayne would be
transferred to the soon-to-open San Francisco airport Marriott. Other
properties would be opening in the area and Wayne would be on the fast
track. He also gave him some advice—immerse yourself in the job. No
partying. "Those were the three things I learned from him—take the good
from the situation, focus on your work and never yell in the kitchen."
The hotel’s executive chef was Jim Gemgnani. He realized that Wayne
had worked with Tom Walker, who had been Jim’s sous. "Now the fast track
was really on," recalls Wayne. "Because I had learned from Tom, I knew
how Jim operated and didn’t have the initial learning curve." From 1985
to 1989, Wayne jumped three positions from food production to banquet
chef. When San Ramon opened, he was signed on as sous chef. The Regional
Food and Beverage Director vetoed the move and sent him downtown as
banquet chef for the 1,500 room hotel. "I learned about high production
coordination. When something goes wrong, you have to take all the
personalities out and say ‘if this worked right, what would the system
look like?’ and then put those steps into place to be successful."
The last step on the way to his goal was a sous chef position. He was
asked to move to San Ramon but, surprisingly, not as sous but executive
chef. The person requesting the transfer was the same person who had
originally signed him into the training program, Peter Lee. His past
connections helped him reach his goal two years early. He stayed from
1991-1993, then transferred to Santa Clara where he stayed from
1993-1996.
Leaving Marriott, he moved to San Francisco’s Crowne Plaza Parc 55
Hotel, staying until 1999. He wanted to work where emphasis was on fresh
product, stocks and sauces. While there, he attended a program at the
Culinary Institute of America about the foods of Spain. "I learned about
the layers of flavors, how a spice tasted alone and in food, how it all
worked with wine," recalls Wayne.
Photo above: Andaluca dining room
In 1999, Paul Ishii, a co-worker from Parc 55 invited him to Seattle
for the weekend. Paul was working at the Mayflower Park Hotel. A month
later, Wayne was asked to become executive chef at Andaluca. "I checked
it out and knew it would be good," Wayne says. "It’s not like most other
restaurants connected to a hotel. We decide on something and do it. We
make things happen in-house."
This past February, Wayne added pintxos (small bites) to the menu.
"They’re fun for us and the customer. People have them at happy hour or
as a pre-dinner course or a late-night snack with wine. We also have
mini-sweets that are just one-to-two bites."
In October, Wayne will be hosting a trip to Spain. "I’ve wanted to go
for several years," he explains, "to see and feel the Spanish
community’s love of food and have fun. Anyone can join in. I hope that
guests who have experienced Andaluca will want to have this experience
and a sense of togetherness."
Between Wayne’s job, his many charitable events, the Spain trip and
two sons, he’s a busy guy. But never too busy to be amazed at the
defining moments and connections that have brought him to this place in
his life.
Andaluca Restaurant
407 Olive Way, Seattle, WA 98101
206-382-6999
www.andaluca.comBreakfast,
lunch, dinner. Complimentary valet parking
Travel to Spain
October 7-18, 2007
Barcelona, Madrid, Sevilla
Markets, museums, vineyards, olive groves, bakeries, cooking
classes, guided walks, wine and cheese tastings, incredible
meals
and tapas, Flamenco
http://www.earthboundexpeditions.com/HOSTED_TRIPS/H014.htm |
Connie Adams March/April 2007 |
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