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Hector’s of Kirkland

Taking American traditions to the next level

In another era, it already seems, Hector’s was the hub of Kirkland. If you wanted to run into people (including well-known people like Sonics and Seahawks players), have a quiet lunch or a raucous bar evening, Hector’s was where you went. And it was definitely where you went to recover from the previous evening. Most Kirkland residents, and many non-residents, have a Hector’s story to tell.

In August of 2003, Stuart McLeod, a Kirkland resident, purchased Hector’s. Instead of ripping the place down (which really could have been one of his considerations), he took it back to its roots, exposing original brick walls and installing updated fixtures.

The look now is updated American traditional with lovely lighting fixtures which actually illuminate enough to allow you to read the menu and see your dining partners while still giving the dim-lighting effect. Brick walls have been exposed, others are painted subtle, warm colors. Wood throughout and comfortable booths and chairs make it a place you want to plunk down and stay awhile. An old-fashioned settee and chairs are scattered around the waiting/entry area.

The bar (at left) is darker than the dining area—good not only for watching sports on TV but also for maintaining that bar feel. Both rooms have a new policy—no smoking. Not such good news for smokers, perhaps, but everyone else on the planet is thrilled. There is an open-air patio in back where smokers can indulge beneath heat lamps during cold weather or enjoy the natural warmth the other two-to-three months of the year.

Updated American traditional can also apply to the menu. Officially, Hector’s is calling it “Timeless Comfort Food.” All food options are available: poultry, pork, beef, seafood, pasta, soups, salads. Very democratic to have all groups represented. American standards like macaroni and cheese, meat loaf and fish and chips populate the menu.

Like all restaurants, Hector’s faces tough competition—people have a lot of dining options to choose from—and they are faced with the added challenge of pleasing locals, loyal long-time customers and affluent customers perhaps newer to the Kirkland neighborhood. How to please everyone?

The answer lies in pumping up traditional dishes, adding a wine list of over 100 bottles and having a sommelier on duty. You’ll see this yin and yang of upscale vs. “regular guy” throughout Hector’s.

Take the sommelier—that’s upscale. But when he comes to your table to chat about all those wines in a short-sleeved polo shirt—that’s “regular guy.” Meat loaf and potatoes—that’s “regular guy.” Meat loaf made with chicken andouille sausage and served with mushroom gravy and buttermilk rosemary mashed potatoes—that’s upscale. Steaks are USDA choice meats (high-end places serve only prime)—that’s “regular guy.” But a filet with peppercorn demi-glace and Oregonzola cheese or a rib eye with a porcini herb and coffee crust—that’s upscale. Mussels as an appetizer—“regular guy” in terms of predictability. Penn Cove mussels steamed in garlic white wine butter and Serrano-chile lime and lime leaves—upscale. Prices stay reasonable, flavors stay high.

This infusion of flavor and spice into sometimes-less-than-interesting dishes (who lives for meat loaf?) is what sets Hector’s apart. They have managed to stay somewhat true to their roots at the same time they’ve completely updated and upgraded. A nice balancing act created and maintained by Executive Chef Chris Nelson (at right) , formerly of the Yarrow Bay Beach Café. He has not only balanced the old and new at Hector’s, he has jumped into the “charitable cause” fray with many other local chefs, volunteering his time, food and knowledge to raise money for important local programs. Sous chef Dan Costa certainly carries out the plans created by Chef Chris, but has also done some creating on his own. When the “Kirkland’s Chowder Showdown” was dreamed up, Dan conceived what is now one of Hector’s most popular items, smoked corn and crab chowder (the corn is literally smoked and, okay, there’s some bourbon in there). And, oh yes, it actually won top honors for the “Showdown,” competing with six other restaurants.

Needless to say, things are never perfect in restaurant-land. The service can be less than consistent. On the first trip, there were a few minor miscommunications. These were far from ruining the evening, but enough to create a distraction to the meal. On two return trips, the service was friendly and efficient and actually enhanced the dining experience. Some menu items are fine but not outstanding, like the potato skins. Nothing new here, but if you like potato skins you’ll think these are just fine.

Other items, like the side vegetables at dinner are the same you’ll get at many places. But the spring-fresh flavor speaks of cooks who know what they’re doing. And that’s the other element that will help Hector’s keep locals coming back and bring in those destination diners. Pork cooked to perfection, tender with a hint of pink; mussels tender and flavorful; spices that come through clearly but don’t overwhelm—the kitchen staff is obviously in control.

All in all, Hector’s has done a wonderful job of renewing itself as a local spot. The less-than-perfect things are fixable. Big items like menu and execution are in fine hands. Give them a try at breakfast, lunch, dinner, happy hour or weekend brunch. You’ll have new Hector’s stories to add to the old. SD!

Connie Adams/Spring/2004

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