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Waterfront Seafood Grill

Best of both worlds

Waterfront Seafood Grill has managed the hat trick of consistently providing a top-notch experience to their guests—food, hospitality, ambience—on a large scale. With their dining room, lounge, deck and private dining, they can serve approximately 700 people in a day. Guests expect value for the price and look for that high-end experience.

Photo: Aerial view courtesy of Waterfront Seafood Grill

Triad Development originally approached Paul Mackay about their project at Pier 70. Paul saw an opportunity for a high-end waterfront restaurant that would be a draw 12 months each year—not a summer spot only. Waterfront opened on May 25, 2000, with Chef Vicky McCaffree and a concept of dining as entertainment with a great atmosphere.

For six months, the restaurant went wild. Then the dot com bubble burst the first quarter of 2001. As they were climbing out, 9/11 happened. As General Manager Chris Sparkman says, "The times created quite a challenge and we had to restructure things. There was the requisite fallout and rebuilding of staff. Some folks who were there but not in the right roles had the opportunity to rise. Steve Cain became the executive chef. He deserves an enormous amount of credit for all his guidance and hard work."

Photo: Seafood Baccanalia by Ilya Photography

Chris had worked at restaurants with high service levels. "When I moved here, I saw El Gaucho on top of everyone’s list, plus it was owned by good people. If something benefits our service, we get support. We also get challenged when we need it. We challenge each other; that speaks to the trust from dishwashers to owners." He started at El Gaucho Seattle in December 2000, moving to Waterfront to help with the rebuilding effort. He returned to El Gaucho, then to Waterfront as the #2 under GM Rich Troiani for two years. In May 2003, he became the GM. "I got the golden key chain," he laughs.

Chef Cain mastered kitchen execution and consistency and the focus returned to delivery and hospitality, a Mackay hallmark. Steve left to open El Gaucho in Bellevue. Chef Peter Levine moved into the Waterfront kitchen in August 2008, working with Steve before he left, then taking over. "I’ve embellished what Steve built," says Peter. "There’s a maturity in the food that matches the space." Chris adds, "Peter notched up the food. It helps to have fresh ideas that add as opposed to tearing down."

Waterfront Seafood Grill
2801 Alaskan Way, Pier 70
Seattle, WA 98121
206-956-9171
www.waterfrontpier70.com

Photo (l-r) Owner Chad Mackay, Executive Chef Peter Levine, General Manager Chris Sparkman

"Peter did a great job at Troiani for us, creating exciting dishes," says Chad. "He executed at high and low volumes. He needed a bigger opportunity and has stepped the culinary level up at Waterfront. He does the right thing for the guest, has a total work ethic, but not a big ego." Peter has always loved a busy kitchen. Chad and Chris laugh at that. "Peter had no sous chef when he first came in. There were times when his eyes were bloodshot and the size of saucers," says Chris. "It’s five times busier than Troiani," says Peter. "We’ve got an unstoppable team; probably the best in Seattle. We handle the volume, keep up the quality and smile the whole time." Peter has about six people who’ve worked with him for years and 3-4 long-time Waterfront veterans. "We also fished out the Sea Grill staff when it closed. Matt Brandsey was the executive chef there and is now our sous chef. Wesley Hood is also here," says Peter.

Chad, Chris and Peter all make the point that the upper echelon kitchen staff are all fathers. "If you only have one kid, you’re not doing your part," laughs Peter. They joke, but they’re serious, too. "It’s a different type of staff," says Chad. "When people make a choice to have a family, they take on a new level of personal responsibility. We don’t have to deal with certain types of issues." Chris adds, "We’re evolving into a place where it’s about families—10 babies have been born to staffers. It’s a great set of employees who have lots to offer."

Peter describes the menu as classic Northwest seafood. "We have all the favorites as well as interesting dishes and lots of specials. We sell it to the staff first. If they love it, it’s a win. The volume we have allows us to offer a lot of options." They’ve clearly hit their stride. "We just turned record profits for April-May," says Chris. "We’ll see a tourist spike in summer, but our success is pegged to our regular locals and travelers. I’d say our business is made up of 60% regulars." A quarter of their business is special events. "We’re a destination spot; we don’t get a lot of walk-by traffic," says Chad. "Our regulars bring their out-of-town guests, we have private events from 16 to 60 to 150 or large groups of 300." They’ve also done about 20 six-course wine dinners in the last ten months. "They’re a cool vehicle to try out new dishes," says Peter.

During the summer, the deck doubles their size. "We’re in better fighting shape than ever going into this summer. It’s very exciting," says Chris. Peter agrees. "The sandbags are filled," he says. "Bring it on!"

As with all Mackay Restaurants, there’s great wine knowledge. Ninety percent of the staff working the floor are Level 1 sommeliers. "We had 25 people certified last year; 50 in the entire company," says Chad. Chris explains, "A few years ago we committed to a focus on Washington wine. A lot of winemakers eat here. It was one of our major marketing strategies."

Photo: Waterfront deck, courtesy of Waterfront Seafood Grill

The dining room is all view with huge windows; perfect in summer but just as beautiful the rest of the year. "You can watch a storm roll in, see white caps and roiling water and the ferries crossing over," says Chris. The bar (longest in Seattle and maybe on the West Coast) was designed to have a sexy curviness and a view. With the Olympic Sculpture Park in place, the view has improved. GQ Magazine awarded Waterfront their cocktail of the year.

Photo: long bar, taken by Sam Tropp

An informal and sincere approach to hospitality is the frosting over serious technical standards and professionalism. It allows Waterfront to offer the best of both worlds—a comfortable experience with the highest culinary and service levels.

Connie Adams/June 2009

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