CAVU Cellars

There’s nothing like taking a flying leap into the unknown to get your adrenalin going. The Waite family (parents Jim and Karen and son Joel) apparently deal with adrenalin rushes in a very positive manner and have taken CAVU Cellars from an idea to a self-sustaining winery in just two years.

Jim and Karen are both from Alaska and met at the University of Alaska. Despite his plans to become a geologist, Jim went into the mandatory ROTC program at college and came out a 2^nd lieutenant in the Army with a private pilot’s license. The first two years in the Army saw the family move a dozen times. When Joel hit high school, they settled in northern Virginia with Jim working at the Pentagon. Joel’s first year of college was at the University of Alaska. Unfortunately, it was a bitter cold experience with temperatures routinely hitting 60 below 0. He returned to Washington, D.C. in 1996 and started a career in the restaurant industry. He waited tables, tended bar and assisted chefs. He flew to California to attend summer programs at the Napa Valley Culinary School in St. Helena, returning to cook at parties for friends. He was noticed by a man who wanted to entertain 3-4 times per week. His guests were international lawyers, politicians and lobbyists. Joel became his personal chef.

Meanwhile, Karen’s sister had moved to Walla Walla and Karen had finished her delayed degree in psychology. Jim and Karen started thinking about early retirement and moving to Walla Walla. After attending a family wedding in La Connor, Joel visited his relatives in Walla Walla, enjoying the downtown area and the relationships the wineries had with each other and their customers. He checked out The Center for Enology and Viticulture and decided to enter the two-year program. After graduation in June of 2007, he was hired as the assistant winemaker at Maryhill Winery. "Making wine is like a food recipe," says Joel. "A little of this, a little of that and you’re able to create something that matches your idea."

Although Joel liked Maryhill, he wanted to be back in Walla Walla. In December of 2007, Jim and Karen sold their house in Virginia and moved to Walla Walla. Jim thought it might be a good idea to start a small winery so Joel could make his own wines. Really, how expensive could it be? Joel left his job at Maryhill in the summer of 2008, returning to Walla Walla to turn Jim’s idea of a small winery into reality with a 2008 harvest. The Port of Walla Walla was adding two winery incubators at the airport and they signed on. The incubators allow new wineries to start up at a relatively low cost (increasing rent each year) and stay for a maximum of six years. "In another two years, we’ll start seriously looking at property to buy for the winery," says Joel. With Jim’s history as a pilot and their airport location, the aviation theme seemed a natural fit. "‘Ceiling and visibility unlimited’ means it’s a great day to fly—‘this is a CAVU day.’ It works well with this being a new venture for us," says Karen. "The sky’s the limit!"

With help from Dustin Tobin, a friend Joel met at college, Joel decided on the types of wine he wanted to make and Dustin helped put grape contracts in place from top Washington vineyards. "My palate was developed in D.C.," explains Joel. "I knew the style of wine I liked. Because I didn’t grow up here, I don’t have the idea in my head of what a Washington wine is. I came in with a fresh idea and I think our wines stand out because of that." Current releases include Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera Rosé, Horizon red wine, Malbec and Barbera. "Each vintage is different. Our first two years have been relatively similar, but this year our Malbec grapes are coming from the Walla Walla Valley, so it will be different. We’ll stick with our main varietals for at least five years to establish ourselves. We’re releasing a Cabernet Sauvignon this fall. And we will make small amounts of other wines for our club members, like the Petit Verdot we’ll offer this fall/winter and a Petit Syrah."

The family has no plans to grow their own grapes. "We use established vineyards and they do what I want with the fruit," explains Joel. "If we bought 10 acres, it wouldn’t be good for all types of grapes. We don’t want to be limited." They do plan to eventually lease property and build their own winery, staying in the airport area. It will include a commercial kitchen so Joel can combine his two careers. "We’re planning to do a winemaker’s dinner once a month," says Joel.

CAVU has earned awards from the Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Seattle Wine Awards and Northwest Food and Wine Festival. Their 2008 Barbera received 88 points from International Wine Cellars. Their wine can be found at the Space Needle, El Gaucho, Tilth and The Capital Grille in Seattle, as well as Whole Foods and Central Market. It’s definitely a CAVU kind of day.

Connie Adams/October 2010

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