Mercer Estates
A new winery with deep roots

Mercer Estates has roots that go back generations. The Hogue and
Mercer families are deeply intertwined with each other and Prosser,
Washington. Their love of the area shows clearly in the pride they take
in seeing Prosser bloom again. Their winemaker, David Forsyth, grew up
in Eastern Washington and has spent his entire career there.
Mike
Hogue’s family lived just north of Prosser. The Hogue family grew hops
and Bud Mercer’s family raised cattle and supplied manure to farmers.
Mike went to school with Bud’s younger brother Rich. Mike’s dad, Wayne,
was a mover and shaker in the community and at one time the mayor of
Prosser. "My dad was very community minded," says Mike. "He’s 89 now and
so positive. Nobody has a better day than he does on a good day. He
still frequently plays golf." Wayne was the guidepost for Dick and Larry
Olsen who for years had grown grapes for Chateau Ste. Michelle. They’ve
since created their own winery, Olsen Estates.
Photo above: Bud Mercer, Patsy Mercer, Mike Hogue
In 1978, Mike became interested in the wine industry and was able to
learn first hand from Dr. Walter Clore, the man considered the father of
Washington wine (Walt and his brother Don planted the first grapes on
Horse Heaven Hills in 1972). Mike went on to plant vines in the Yakima
and Columbia Valleys that would become the birth of The Hogue Cellars.
Bud’s family lived right in Prosser, but he basically grew up in
Horse Heaven Hills. His grandfather, Willis, built the Mercer Block
building in downtown Prosser in 1906. The estate sold the building in
1948 to the Olney family. They owned it until one of Bud’s daughters
purchased it in 1993. Bud’s second daughter, Julie, is now the owner of
the Mercer Block buildings and is planning a 16-room boutique hotel
upstairs. Julie also remodeled the Princess Theatre, Prosser’s movie
theatre (where Mike saw his first Elvis Presley movie) which she has
converted into a live theatre and event space. When the remodel ran into
some snags, Bud stepped in as lead carpenter and Mike worked on the
project as assistant contractor for three weeks.
Bud and his wife Patsy owned carrot packaging plants in El Centro,
California, and Eastern Washington until recently. "Up until about two
years ago, we owned two large downtown buildings," says Bud. His dad,
Milt, brought irrigation to Horse Heaven Hills in 1968. "It was the
first irrigated water from the Columbia," explains Bud. "My dad was a
pioneer. He was irrigating the land for cattle grazing. Forty years
later, there are about 120,000 acres of irrigated land."
The Mercers planted their first vines in the early 1970s in Horse
Heaven Hills. In 1978, they developed their first major planting, later
selling the land to Paul Champoux. The Champoux Vineyard sells to
premium wineries and is known for producing award-winning wines. Mercer
land wraps around Champoux Vineyard.
In 2001, Mike sold The Hogue Cellars to Vincor. "At Hogue, we wanted
to go beyond being a 500,000 case winery," explains Mike. "That meant we
had to attract capital. It’s the only way to do it. After I gathered
advice, we went ahead and negotiated a fair price. Although the culture
has changed, the core of Hogue, the winemaking, hasn’t. My brother Gary
is still there. Hogue Ranches is still the largest supplier of grapes to
The Hogue Cellars—about 35 percent." Mike honored the five-year
non-compete agreement he made as part of the sale. Vincor has since sold
The Hogue Cellars to Constellation Brands. In 2004, Bud sold his carrot
packaging plants.
After the sale of their businesses, Mike and Bud "were just doing the
farms and scaling back." Then the kids got involved. "We wouldn’t be
doing this if it weren’t for our kids," says Mike. "It’s an exacting,
demanding business. You don’t go into it without covering the bases and
hiring the right people. You have to focus on the business side and the
quality of wine. Our parents taught us this about business—it’s not a
hobby."
Mike’s
daughter Barbara and her husband Ron Harle run Hogue Ranches. Mike and
his wife Dora also have a 15 year old son, Riley. Bud and Patsy’s son
Rob runs Mercer Canyons. Rob and his wife Brenda have three children.
Between all of their children, Bud and Patsy have 14 grandchildren.
Photo above: Ron and Barb Harle
"Ron, Barbara and Rob are really the people behind Mercer Estates,"
says Mike. "They wanted to do it. I see this as passing what we’ve done
on to the next generation, just like our parents did for us. The kids
like to give us credit for the winery, but they’re the
ones
who brought this to us. They’re very close. Rob, a Marine, volunteered
for Iraq. He and Ron spoke every day while he was there. They’re both
very astute businessmen with different backgrounds. Rob is a farmer with
an MBA and Ron is a CPA. It’s been interesting to see how they come at
the same business from different perspectives."
Photo above: Rob and Brenda Mercer
Ron is the CFO and managing partner of Mercer Estates. Rob’s focus is
on current vineyards and developing future vineyard sites from Mercer
family land. Barb’s contribution is on the creative side: imagery,
tasting room design and promoting the brand.
So how are Mike and Bud involved? "I see myself as a consultant,"
says Mike. "And I see Bud as a rock star. He was a big hit in New York."
Bud enjoys their role: "We just do the winemaker dinners, lunches and
have fun."
Although they love to downplay their part in all this, they are very
involved. "Our first phase was to get the winery to the point where we
could handle production," says Bud. "The second phase is to get the
barrel room and tasting room ready." The barrel room was finished in
August. The tasting room should be completed in early spring 2009.
"Our master plan is to offer premium wine for a mid-range price," Bud
continues. "So far, we’ve done that. Our philosophy is that it’s great
to have international visitors, but our bread and butter is the I-5
corridor—people from Kirkland, Redmond, Seattle. They’re our audience."
"We love to tell stories and have fun, but bottom line, it’s all
about the wine," says Mike. "We want to further Washington State’s
reputation for high quality wine."
Next month: we’ll continue the Mercer Estates story with a look at
the team they’ve put together and how Prosser is changing with the wine
industry engine pulling it forward.
Click here to read Part 2
Click here to read Part 3
Connie Adams/September 2008 |