Yakima Valley Wine

Washington is an amazing wine-producing state. We’re #2 in wine production in the U.S. In 1983, Yakima Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) became the first federally recognized appellation in Washington. It includes more than 60 wineries, over a third of the vineyards in Washington and produces more than a third of the state’s grapes. We need to celebrate this amazing region and, in our own nontraditional way, Seattle DINING! is doing it for their 26^th anniversary. We’ve talked with long-time growers and winemakers to get a feel for what’s happened over the past 26 years.

Ridge grapes, photo courtesy of Wine Yakima Valley

Yakima Valley sometimes gets overlooked in the love fest of Washington wines. You hear more about Walla Walla or the continually growing Woodinville Wine Country. In the early days of the AVA, there was less emphasis on marketing as growers and winemakers focused on the learning curve of what grapes to plant where. As they’ve become more sophisticated in their growing techniques, they’ve begun to market themselves more consistently through Wine Yakima Valley (www.wineyakimavalley.org). People may not think of Yakima Valley as a premier wine grape growing region, yet the reality is that these grapes are and long have been a key ingredient in more than half of all Washington wines. Yakima grapes are often blended into wines made in other AVAs.

Much of Washington’s wine history begins in the Yakima Valley, where there are over 300 days of sunshine per year, and the wineries and growers are very intertwined. Kay Simon, winemaker, and Clay Mackey, viticulturist, of Chinook Wines presented their inaugural vintage in 1983. Their Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay were made at the Quail Run winery (now Covey Run) from grapes sourced from local vineyards. Clay and Kay met in the Valley while working for Chateau Ste. Michelle and married in 1984.

Kay and Clay with their first release 1984, courtesy of Chinook Wines

A friend, Stan Clark, was a managing partner of Quail Run and also the first instructor at the Institute of Enology and Viticulture in Walla Walla. "Stan was a big champion of Yakima Valley and helped arrange for Chinook wines to be made at Quail Run. That’s how things were done—we all helped each other," explains Kay. "That attitude of the growers and winemakers hasn’t changed. We don’t compete until we’re on the shelf. If I need citric acid for cleaning during crush, I can go down to Hogue and get it. They’re happy to share." The mentoring continues as well. Kristen and James Michael work with Chinook now. They’re hoping to start a sparking wine brand. Kay and Clay are in a position to help and give guidance, just as they received it when they started.

Kay and Clay today, photo by Jackie Johnston, courtesy of Chinook Wines

One of the growers Chinook sources grapes from is Dick Boushey of Boushey Farms. "Chinook is one of my longest-running customers," says Dick. "My first customer was Paul Thomas, whose first winemaker was Brian Carter (now of Brian Carter Cellars in Woodinville). For ten years, I sold Merlot and Cabernet grapes to Tom Hedges. The wine industry is a tight-knit community. We all want to promote Yakima Valley. Growers share a lot of information with each other and provide grapes to wineries all over the state."

Dick sees the challenge ahead. "It’s important that we keep growing together. Yakima Valley can be difficult to define because of its size and diversity." All regions work hard to market successfully. Yakima Valley has over 11,000 acres of premium wine grapes and over 50 wineries. Walla Walla is a much smaller area, about 1600 acres, with over 90 wineries. Woodinville Wine Country includes over 40 wineries, most of which get their grapes from the Columbia Valley.

Dick Boushey, courtesy of Wine Yakima Valley

Dick’s parents bought an orchard in the Valley but couldn’t move immediately. As the oldest son and the only one out of school, Dick planned to run the orchard for a short time. That was 1974. "I had no farming experience and was dependent on relatives and other farmers. It was a big learning curve," he recalls. "Back then, there were 8-9 wineries. I have a poster for spring barrel tasting with Hogue, Hinzerling, Yakima River Winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Kiona, Blackwood Canyon, Tucker, Quail Run (now Covey Run) and Stewart (gone). Stewart’s first winemaker was Mike Januik (now of Januik Winery and Novelty Hill Wines)."

Some growers have begun to make their own wine. An example is Olsen Estates which broke ground for their winery in 2006. Their first crush took place in their production facility and in 2007, they opened a tasting room. But 2008 was an Olsen family anniversary—100 years in the Yakima Valley. Martin Olsen came from Norway. Turned away at Ellis Island, he went to Canada, then ended up in Tacoma. He saved enough money to bring his wife and three children to the U.S. Two years later, they moved to the Yakima Valley. There was no irrigation; Martin was part of the opening of the canal system. Now the fourth generation Olsens, Martin (winery manager) and his cousin Leif (vineyard manager) run the new winery. "As I drive from the ranch to the winery," says Martin, "I pass the spot where my great grandfather settled in 1908."

Olsen family in 1935 courtesy of Wine Yakima Valley

Martin’s father Dick was a founding member of the Washington Wine Commission, a board of growers and producers. "For the wine industry to do well, the growers have to do well," explains Martin. "The viticultural side of things is crucial. Top quality grapes are critical. I use the analogy of a good cut of meat that can be ruined by a chef. But a bad cut will never make a good steak. Same with wine. You have to start with good grapes."

Photo below: Olsen Brother’s Farm and Estates co-founder, Dick Olsen; his son and winery manager Martin Olsen; Vineyard Manager Leif Olsen (son of Larry Olsen); Olsen Brothers Farm and Estates co-founder, Larry Olsen, courtesy of Olsen Estates

Martin agrees with Dick about the industry. "We’re unique because the Washington wine industry is like a family. It’s different from other industries. People want to help each other—the rising tide raises all ships. They want to give advice and see the region and individuals do well." He also sees the same challenge that Dick describes. "We haven’t marketed as well as other regions. Part of that is that it’s a huge region and very diverse in the crops that are produced. Also, all AVAs are in the Columbia Valley (except Puget Sound). In order to meet federal regulations, bottles have to be labeled Columbia Valley. Without marketing, people aren’t aware of what comes out of Yakima Valley specifically." The challenge also presents an opportunity; growers and winemakers are working through Wine Yakima Valley to better and more accurately represent what the Valley has to offer.

Connie Adams/February 2009

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