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Betz Family Winery
No
nonsense passion
Passion is a word that has hit the overused mark in the last few years.
We’re all exhorted to "find our passion" and not waste our time on
anything less than what we’re passionate about. In the real world, most
people don’t have the luxury or luck to be working at something that
makes them intensely happy. But once in awhile you meet someone who has
found that sweet spot. In this case, it’s Bob Betz of the Betz Family
Winery.
Born
into a German-Italian family where great emphasis was put on food and
wine, Bob always felt Europe’s grip on his heart. In 1968, he and a
friend traveled in Europe and the grip grew stronger. Returning to
finish college at the University of Washington, he planned to attend
medical school. Graduating with good grades and in the honors program,
he was stunned when he was not accepted: there were more students
applying than there was space. He and his future wife Cathy had met in
1968 before he’d gone to Europe and started to date seriously after his
return, marrying in 1970. Without school in his future, they headed to
Europe. Cathy had lived in France for a year and was eager to return.
For the first three and a half years of their marriage, they came and
went, touring, tasting and working in vineyards, primarily France and
Italy, but also Germany, Austria and Spain. "We loved the lifestyle,"
Bob recalls. "It’s hard work, but a very appealing way to live and
culturally attractive. Back then, fewer people had done that, so when we
returned, I had an interesting background."
Photo: Bob Betz
Bob took a job managing three La Cantina wine stores. About a year
later, he moved to Stimson Lane Wine & Spirits (now Chateau Ste.
Michelle), starting in public relations and moving into various
positions over the years—acting as a corporate officer, managing their
TQM (Total Quality Management) program and eventually becoming the
managing director of the winery’s two joint ventures. He stayed 28
years.
"I loved every minute at Ste. Michelle," says Bob. "I have great
respect for the CEO, Ted Baseler, who takes the long view of what’s good
for the company as well as for Washington wines. I see the guys from the
winery all the time; it’s the best possible situation. While I was
there, I had one foot in operations and the other in
marketing/communications. I’ve probably been back to European vineyards
dozens of times and have spent a lot of time with growers and winemakers
in California. I was, at various times, part of the sensory review of
wine, part of the blending team. I’ve walked the cellars and vineyards
and have always had a love of winemaking even though I wasn’t actually
making wine there."
In 1980, he reapplied to med school and was accepted. By that time,
he and Cathy had two daughters, Carmen and Carla. They knew Bob wouldn’t
be around much for 6-8 years if he took the medical path and there
wouldn’t be much money. He declined and stayed at Ste. Michelle.
In 1993, he began studying for his Master of Wine, passing the final
tests in 1998. An intense program, students are tested on theory and
must write a dissertation as well as passing tasting tests. "It’s
accepted as the highest recognition within the wine community. Always a
late bloomer, I passed the course just shy of my 50th
birthday," Bob smiles. "I did well and I think it was because I had
experience. It really only matters in terms of what you do with the
knowledge. It makes you think about the world of wine in a different
way—not just growing, but also making, tasting, selling. You learn about
cultural issues, individual vineyards, growers, winemakers and wine.
Very few Masters of Wine are winemakers. I think I’m the only one in
America who is actually a commercial winemaker. Others are reps for wine
companies, chefs, writers, educators and one who selects wines to be
served on United Airlines."
Bob and Cathy knew their love of wine wouldn’t wane after his
retirement. Bob made his own wine for six years before retiring from
Chateau Ste. Michelle in 2003, with the first vintage in 1997. "All
vacations and weekends were spent making our own wine," he laughs. They
worked out of a warehouse in Woodinville for six years. "We bought the
property we’re on now in 2004, moved into the house and built the winery
in 2004-2005. 2005 was our first vintage here and all subsequent
vintages have been made at this winery. It’s wonderful—we live on the
hill behind the winery and walk to work."
The
winery had to stay within the 6,000 square foot limit imposed by King
County. It was designed with two major focuses: movement and sanitation.
"We laid things out with horizontal and vertical abilities—we never pump
skins and seeds," says Bob. "We put grapes in bins and then into the
hopper, then the de-stemmer and crusher. This is all done using gravity
and we need height in the building to make it work. Once it’s back in a
bin, we lift it and gently dump it into tanks. After it goes through the
fermenter, it’s put through a funnel we designed and into the press and
then barrels." As for sanitation, walls and floor are concrete and can
be spray-washed. The floor at the barrel room line is the highest point
and slants both directions with floor drains throughout the rooms.
Designed to fit their physical, financial and lifestyle goals, the
winery is not set up for growth. "Knowing we didn’t want to grow beyond
this point helped us make focused decisions; we want quality to take the
forefront."
Photo above: equipment used during crush
Each
of the two barrel rooms holds all the wine from one vintage, up to 180
barrels. The barrel rooms are underground with four feet of soil and
concrete above them. After malolactic fermentation, the doors to the
rooms are shut and they stay cool throughout winter and spring. "We turn
on supplemental cooling mid-June through September," says Bob. A third
room holds their case goods. "We don’t like to ship wine until the
customer is ready. That way, I know how the wine was cared for, the
temperature it was held at."
Photo: Bob and his barrels
Click here to read Part 2
Connie Adams/December 2008
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