Mercer Estates, Part 2

Salesman Jeff Peda has a long-time perspective on Mike and Bud. "They are very smart about picking people to handle the jobs needing to be done. Everyone is very good at what they do and everyone gets along and works well together. Of course, most of us have worked together for years!"

Photo: Patsy & Bud Mercer; Jeff Peda & Mike Hogue-background

Jeff worked for The Hogue Cellars for 17 years. Winemaker David Forsyth jokes that he actually worked for The Hogue Cellars longer than Mike Hogue. Cellar Master David Copeland started work for the Hogue Ranches but Mike moved him to the winery. He started six months before David Forsyth. They both stayed until Mercer Estates was born. "David F. has a sparkle in his eye again," says Mike. "He’s happy making wine hands-on instead of overseeing. Having David on board means the learning curve is already covered!"

David Copeland has broad responsibilities as cellar master. He’s been the general contractor on the building of the winery and did the physical layout and design with David Forsyth. He’s in charge of the barrel and tasting rooms. He does the maintenance and keeps everything running. He also ships product.

Photo: Dave Copeland (left) and David Forsyth

"It’s great to be involved with individuals like Mike and Bud," says David Forsyth. "They’ve been involved in the industry for a long time, as farmers and grape growers. The company is family-owned and they are dedicated to the land and area. It’s fun to launch a new winery and brand. We have the knowledge of where to grow grapes; we’re fine-tuning viticulture and have had the opportunity to work with great growers right from the start. For me, it’s like back to the future. In the early days at Hogue, it was me and David Copeland and one other person making the wine and working with Mike. Now it’s David and me and Mike Maltos in the cellar, working with Mike."

David went to college at Central Washington in Ellensburg, then got his masters in the University of California, Davis, wine program, working in Napa while in school. The Washington wine industry was taking off as he graduated and he wanted to be part of it. The Hogue Cellars was in their first year of operation. He joined them as their winemaker—his first job out of college, and he stayed 23 years. "It was my identity," he says. When he started, they produced 6,000 cases. They now produce over 600,000. "I knew nothing back then and still know nothing," he laughs. "There is so much to know, you never stop learning. And so much has changed over the years."

Mercer Estates is producing Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Hogue supplies white grapes from their Yakima and Columbia Valley vineyards. It’s 5-7° cooler there and grapes show a higher acidity and flavor. Mercer supplies red grapes from their Dead Canyon vineyards in Horse Heaven Hills. They also source grapes from other vineyards and will continue to do so. "You need diversity in flavor and terroir," explains David. "Also in case of cold freeze which happens once every 7-10 years. It typically doesn’t hit every area, so you’re still able to produce. Grape growing has improved and we know how to shut vines down in the fall so they’re in better shape going into winter." Among others, they get red grapes from Rob Andrew in Horse Heaven Hills and Doug Frieze on Wahluke Slope. White grapes are sourced in Yakima and Columbia Valleys.

They use American oak on reds and French oak on whites. "90% of our Chardonnay is barrel fermented/aged. 10% is placed in stainless steel. It helps retain fruit flavor and crispness. Barrel sur lies adds richness and oak flavor. 30% goes through a malolactic fermentation giving it a buttery-ness and complexity. It softens the wine. The downside is that it knocks down the fruit quite a bit. The tank fraction keeps the fruit up."

Photo: David Forsyth and wall of barrels

"Sauvignon Blanc is primarily in stainless steel, but a portion is placed in American oak for a month. Aroma and mouth feel are very important for this wine, and it’s very sensitive to oxygen which it’s exposed to as it goes in and out of barrels. Reds age for 16-22 months in barrels and we keep lots separated most of the way through, eventually integrating them," explains David. "Our Riesling has 1.3% residual sugar and high acidity."

"Our wines may not win awards in side-by-side tastings because we make them to pair well with foods, not to stand alone," says David. "They have less alcohol and higher acidity. One of the differences in being a smaller winery is that you can define what you want to make vs. what consumers want you to make. If you’re making large amounts of wine, you have to listen to a broader audience in order to sell enough. For me, it’s a balance of what I like to drink and make vs. what consumers want to drink."

"Mercer Estates is designed to be a certain size—large enough to afford state-of-the-art equipment to do it right, but small enough for everyone to be hands on and enjoy the moment. We have no need to expand. Three guys make the wine and we have a lot of fun doing it," says Mike. Eventually, Mercer will produce 65,000 cases. "That’s as big as we’ll get," says David. In year one, they produced 28,000 cases; year two should see 32,000. They currently have 800 barrels; ultimately it will be 2,400. With the price of steel going up, they’ve already purchased all the tanks they’ll need. Each tank holds 5,700 gallons.

In our next installment we'll take a look at Mercer's state-of-the-art equipment and how the wine industry is bringing life back to Prosser.

Click here to read Part 1

Click here to read Part 3

Connie Adams/October 2008

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