The Evolution of the American Cocktail

My how the pendulum swings. In Oliver's, at the Mayflower Park Hotel, we find ourselves celebrating the classic cocktails as they return to prominence. From the early 20^th century to present, the nature, history and culture of the American cocktail has evolved with a story all its own.

By today's standards, a cocktail may refer to any number of mixed drinks. In the 1800s the name was for specific drinks. In the early days of distillation, the spirits being shipped to America were usually of poor quality. In order for the early American bartenders to improve the product, four ingredients helped make up a cocktail: a spirit, sugar, water and bitters.

Oliver's Martini, courtesy of Mayflower Park Hotel

At the forefront of the classic cocktails were two drinks; the Sazerac, created in New Orleans in 1838, and the Manhattan, created in New York in 1876.

SAZERAC

The original cocktail of New Orleans is named after the brand of French cognac, Sazerac de Forge et Fils. This cocktail is the union of cognac or rye whiskey, absinthe, and Peychaud's bitters. Water is the important fourth ingredient which appears through the dilution of the stirred ice in its preparation. In today's bars, the Sazerac is predominately made with rye whiskey.

MANHATTAN

The Manhattan was created at the Manhattan Club in New York City for Lady Randolph Churchill, mother of Winston Churchill. She was throwing a fundraiser on behalf of Presidential candidate Samuel Tilden with 300 guests in attendance. Samuel Tilden was not elected, but the Manhattan cocktail is a celebratory cocktail that lives on. Made with bourbon, sweet vermouth, Angostura bitters and water, this timeless cocktail is the true embodiment of a "cocktail."

The Sazerac and Manhattan were a major part of the American cocktail evolution as bartenders became true professionals in their craft. This all came to a screeching halt with the enactment of Prohibition in 1920, continuing until 1933. Many of the professional bartenders moved to Europe even though other countries were in the midst of their own prohibition. It seemed there was more opportunity for a true bartender to pursue his passion, especially in London. Some of our classic cocktails survived in speakeasys but there was very little innovation going on and many classics were lost in time. One classic that made it through the dry spell was the Aviation created in 1916 during the exciting times of airplane innovation and flight. Americans had a sense of freedom, pride and creativity that was showing itself in the cocktail sector. The popularity of Howard Hughes and his flying exploits in the mid to late 30s added to the popularity of the Aviation cocktail.

One historical phrase that came out of prohibition was the saying "The Real McCoy." Don McCoy was running rum out of the Caribbean to Florida on his 52' cruiser laden with uncut rum. Most others were cutting their rum to make a larger profit.

As a side note, the temperance movement rejoicing in prohibition and extolling its virtues had its strongest contingency in Seattle, Washington. Go figure!

POST PROHIBITION

The abolishment of prohibition in 1933 brought about many interesting phases in America. Rum had become quite popular and Tiki Bars were sprouting up as well as cocktail lounges, martini bars, taverns, night clubs, etc. The martini also gained popularity as a survivor of prohibition with its image of white gloved affluence thumbing its nose at prohibition. The martini is forever memorialized in the James Bond movies of the 50s and 60s. What's not sophisticated about a handsome British agent dressed in a tuxedo with a martini in one hand and a beautiful lady in a cocktail dress by his side?

The 60s and 70s produced an entirely different chapter in the American cocktail story. The classic cocktails and martini were too representative of high society. With the anti-establishment movement taking place in the United States, the Sazerac, Manhattan, Old Fashioned, martini and others were the epitome of wealthy, white collar, out of touch, country club members and private club patrons that did not represent the real America. None of these people were serving in Vietnam. Created were fruit drinks such as the Harvey Wallbanger, Greyhound and Singapore Sling. Shots of tequila, rum and cokes, and beverages that packed a punch were popular.

MODERN COCKTAILING

From the 1990s to present day there has been a renewed interest in classic cocktails. In the late 90s, Americans began to embrace the classic cocktail, its history and the potential for creativity. Its complexity yet simplicity has given birth to hundreds of craft cocktail bars and a fascinating array of various bitters. Modern cocktailing is evolving at an amazing rate. Information is rapidly exchanged and new products become available every day. The possibilities seem endless. Chefs and culinary artists are taking note of the influx of bitters and the myriad of flavors from certain distilled spirits. Chefs are being inspired by creative professional bartenders and we are seeing their herbs being paired with various grain spirits and botanicals. This evolution is somewhat in its infancy, but beer and spirit pairings are quite popular at restaurants. In the 21^st century we see an enormous number of distilleries, wineries and craft breweries that are swinging the pendulum back to the "classics." True professionals are making celebratory beverages that are exciting and changing the way we look at this profession. Cheers! History does repeat itself. Lift your glass to the Sazerac, Manhattan, Old Fashioned and other classic "cocktails."

A native of Bainbridge Island, Steve (right) has been in the food and beverage industry for over four decades. His early years at Nordstrom and the Sheraton paved the way for a career as the Beverage Director at the Mayflower Park Hotel and Oliver's Lounge. His wisdom, wit (drama major) and love of cocktails and all things Seattle lend themselves well to entertaining Oliver's cocktail classes.

Patrick (left above) has been an Oliver's bartender for the past 10 years. Besides bartending, Patrick is also a well-known painter. He has been fascinated with classic cocktail books for years and has a library at home specifically for his collection. His creativity and flair are not to be missed when taking in an Oliver's cocktail class. www.mayflowerpark.com/olivers.asp

June 2014