Where: Elysian Brewery, 1221 E. Pike, Seattle
Owners: Dave Buhler, Dick Cantwell and Joe Bisacca, (206) 860-1920

Zen Beer

Zen philosophy works under the premise that the journey is much more important than the goal. Head Brewer, Dick Cantwell has this philosophy.

Dick, with Dave Buhler and Joe Bisacca, owns Capitol Hill's Elysian Brewery. The goal of his journey is to create great beers, not a giant beer-making company. It is apparent in the brewing process at the Elysian.

I spent a rainy Tuesday with Dick, watching him brew Elysian's ESB Ale. Unlike head-brewers at larger breweries, Dick has his hands in every step of the process.

A silo holding up to 35,000 Pounds of pale malt stands behind the brewery and pub-- connected to the building via pipes. Dick uses pale malt in almost all of his recipes. Augers, threaded like giant screws, push the grain along the pipes to a mill inside where Dick grinds it for mashing.

Mashing, the next step toward gallon after gallon of wonderful golden ale, consists of mixing the malt with hot water-- 172 degrees. The hot water activates enzymes in the malt which convert complex sugars and carbohydrates into simple sugars.

For ESB, Dick adds hops early in the process-- during boiling-- to add a bitter flavor, and again later, for flavor. Different recipes will call for different grains to add color, texture and flavor. Each batch he brews is approximately 620 Gallons, and will be enjoyed at the Elysian, as well as other area establishments, such as The Break Room, The Crocodile Cafe, Bandaleone, and The Latona Pub.

The mash is drained-- the water carrying the converted sugars from the lanter Tun (Huge kettle for making mash) to another kettle to be boiled. "The excess grain," Dick adds, "I put in big drums outside and we send it to be used as feed on local farms." Each batch fills 4 drums with grain to be sent out.

In the kettle, the sugary liquid (called wort) is boiled. Essentially, beer is the combination of yeast and wort. The wort flows in a whirlpool to remove solids, cooled in a heat exchanger-- similar to a radiator in a car. Yeast is added and it is time to ferment the beer.

While Dick does this, he keeps checking his recipe to insure accurate proportions. He also is very concerned with purity throughout the process.  "Everything the water touches after it is boiled, we clean with a soap similar to lye and an acid solution." Why? "Purity is essential to great beer."

Ales actively ferment with yeast for two to three days. The result is CrO2-- the carbonation. Once ready, the beer is chilled down to freezing. At this point, ales have another week to ferment. A lager takes much longer and is then kept colder.

One notable trait of my tour through the brewery is the pride Dick takes in every aspect of the Elysian. He is a part-owner and has a hand in the entire brewing process. His resume includes the now closed Du Wamps Cafe, Pike Place Brewery, and the Big Time Brewery. Through his consistent efforts at the Elysian over the last three years, his beer has earned a reputation for quality, and his pub for a relaxed atmosphere, affordable prices, and good food.

Dick enjoys his work, and it shows. He says "The Personality of a beer is the personality of the brewers and the procedures they follow." Instead of creating an Elysian chain or opening other pubs, Dick is content on Capitol Hill, creating quality brews.

My favorite Elysian Brew is the Perseus Porter-- similar to Black Butte Porter and McMenemen's Big Rat Porter. If you are having a small party, Elysian Ales are available for $10 a gallon!

Finally, remember: drinking and enjoying Dick's beer is as much a part of the brewing process as anything else, not just the goal. 

See Also: www.elysianbrewing.com

-E.Eibel, 6/99 

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