Mercer Estates, Part 3

For the past two months, we've reported on Mercer Estates, a new winery in Prosser, Washington. The families involved, the Hogues and Mercers, are long-time Prosser families with farming, cattle and grape growing histories. Following is the final installment of our story.

State-of-the-art is the right description of their equipment. They use a Logix system to monitor their stainless steel tanks and keep them at a consistent temperature. "You can maintain the temperature within a tenth of a degree if you want," says winemaker David Forsyth*. "We also have a Dry Fog system that humidifies the barrel room, keeping it at a constant 65-70% humidity level. Barrels breathe and water and ethanol escape. If it gets too dry, we lose wine and it gets out of balance. Cellars used to be underground, but now they're above ground and we don't have that natural humidity. You don't want to have direct light on the barrels, so we've put in skylights that allow north-facing light. Red wine is all about color extraction. If it's not warmed up, yeast isn't fermenting enough. Cool yeast fermentation means poor color quality."

A bottling machine made in Northern Italy inverts bottles and uses compressed nitrogen to blow out dust and displace oxygen that strips fruit flavor and browns the wine. White wines are topped with liquid nitrogen before being topped with screw caps. Red wines are cork finished. "Screw caps increase wine quality," explains David. "Natural cork breathes more than a screw cap, so wines don't stay as fresh. Cork taint, from mold that grows in any wood product, forms TCA causing 10-15% of wines to be corked. Natural cork can also have worm holes that leak too much oxygen. Despite that, we still use cork because red wines need oxygen after they're bottled. We're very careful about the cork we use, but 1% of our wines will still be ruined. No wine is lost with screw caps—it's a good seal with no TCA."

He's studied screw tops for a number of years and found there are more porous membranes that can fit into the top of the screw cap. He knows which one lets too little oxygen in and which lets too much. Once he finds the right membrane between those two points and convinces the screw cap supplier to use it, the reds may have screw caps as well. Wines could either age faster and be ready to drink sooner, or both whites and reds could be held longer before drinking. "We're a mix of old world technique and new world technology. It's great to have the technology to create a facility that is labor and energy efficient, freeing you up to do more actual winemaking. But some things you just can't improve on."

A tasting room outside the barrel room will include a tasting bar, open area with tables and chairs and a conference room with glass walls looking into the barrel room. A kitchen will sit to one side. "We're going to do something different with tasting," says David. "We probably won't charge. We do want to control the number of people coming through. We'll do that mainly by doing tastings by appointment and not allowing large bus tours. There will be no tasting alone, it will always occur with a tour and education."

Their next project after harvest 2008 is landscaping, including a courtyard between the production facility and barrel room.

Photo above: the to-be landscaped courtyard

Everyone at Mercer is proud of the fact that the wine industry is bringing life back to Prosser. "At one time, you could get everything you needed right in town," recalls Bud**. "There were three pharmacies, clothing stores—everything. For the past 30 years, it's gone backward. Now, because of the wine industry, we're starting to move forward. Restaurants and accommodations follow wineries."

"The Port of Benton has been an amazing force over the years," adds Mike. They were behind building infrastructure as long as 25 years ago. Without them, this town wouldn't be here. When we started Hogue Cellars, we rented a building they built and eventually bought it. Vintner's Village is one of their properties." The Village houses several wineries: Thurston Wolfe, Airfield, Olsen Estates and others.

"A lot has changed over the years," agrees David. "Over the past five years, many new wineries have opened and the tourism infrastructure is falling into place. Winters are still hard because traffic falls off after the first snow in the Cascades. Hotels and restaurants have a tough time in winter."

Like the generations before them, the Mercers and Hogues are very involved with Prosser. Both Mike and Bud are on the irrigation committee and members of the Walter Clore board. The Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center, according to their website, will "promote modern-day viticulture, enology and culinary practices by providing a destination point to educate visitors, media and industry about Washington's wine and food." Passionate about the Center, Bud and Mike have worked hard to help secure funding. "The plan is in place and we have about half the funding committed," explains Bud. "It will be great for Eastern Washington and the wine industry."

In addition, the current Prosser mayor owns the Sunset House, a B&B. And Tom Douglas (yes, Seattle's own) has purchased property and is just finishing a remodel on the house. Naturally, rumors run rampant about him opening a restaurant.

The future looks bright for Prosser again, thanks to the dedicated work of people like the Mercers and Hogues. Mercer Estates will complete their winery buildings and landscaping. They'll stay with the wines they currently produce and make a limited amount of wines (Malbec, Sangiovese, Petite Syrah) for their tasting room, mailing list and fun. After all, that's what it's all about.

* David Forsyth moved to Zirkle Wine Company in 2012.
** Bud Mercer died in August 2010.
 

Click here to read Part 1

Click here to read Part 2

Connie Adams/November 2008