Tsillan Cellars

Wine, food, music, beauty

It started simply enough. Buy some apple orchards to help jump start Chelan's economic recovery process. But somehow it all got out of control.

Dr. Bob Jankelson (right) moved to Lake Chelan from Seattle in 1994 with no intention of starting anew. Over the 40 years he spent lecturing on scientific matters around the world, he became passionate about two things: sharing his fortunate life and his exposure to Italy. "It changed my view of life and culture," he explains. "Life doesn't lead you; you have to squeeze every day." In 1999, he was semi-retired, teaching 20 weeks a year. The apple industry was distressed, owners going bankrupt. He bought orchards thinking about stewardship/preservation. His farm background and love of Italy came together and he figured if world-class apples could be grown, why not vinifera grapes? Purchasing orchards in 2000, he immediately removed the apples and planted grapes.

They started conservatively, mostly whites, with Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Gewürztraminer. Then they planted a lot of Syrah and a little Merlot. Italian grapes came next: Sangiovese, Barbara, Nebbiolo, Malbec. "The Syrahs have shone," says Bob. "They've won so many ‘best of' classes awards in international competition. I think Malbec will do the same (planted 2000, with additional plantings in 2008). We've added Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and more Barbara. I had some doubts about the reds, but the Nebbiolo is the only grape that hasn't met expectations. We're pulling those out and planting more Merlot. The whites were great right away."

The estate concept has been vindicated. It's one of the strengths of Chelan. Almost every winery has its own vineyards. Tsillan has 40 producing acres of grapes and since 2008 our wines have been made totally with estate grapes. We produce 6500 cases of wine a year." They have virtually no distribution. "If a restaurant or store calls us, we'll distribute to them. Otherwise, it's sold right here in our tasting room and Wine Club."

Gardens, rockeries, event pavilion, photo by Ben and Molly Photography

Bob knew growing grapes wasn't enough to push a recovery. He had a three-level plan: grow the grapes, make the wine, and give guests an incomparable wine and food experience. With vineyards planted in 2000, a production facility was built, completed in September 2003, in time for their first crush. The next step was to offer an unforgettable experience for wine tourists. "You have to give people memorable experiences. In Italy, wine, food and music go together with friends and family. You have to figure out your story; something that uplifts people." The destination tasting room opened in May 2004.

"Initially, the winery was designed with a catering kitchen for special events. In 2008, I was fortunate to meet Owners/Chefs Jerry and Gennaro Criscuolo. Jerry's parents owned Sorrento's in North Beach, San Francisco, legendary during the 1950s-70s. This is a second and third generation restaurant family." In 2008, the elegant Tuscan tasting facility morphed into a venue for Sorrento's Ristorante. The success of Sorrento's and demand for weddings onsite outgrew the existing facilities.

"Around 2010, the napkin drawings began for my vision to create a game-changing venue for the restaurant, weddings and special events. I design all of the architectural and decorative components by bringing 500-year-old design and materials from Italy. The latest addition had two major challenges. Keep the original Tuscan architecture but don't detract from the panoramic views of Lake Chelan. The solution was to design an elegant glass house inside a beautiful Italian gift box with 27 Tuscan stone columns, fountains and Italian materials! The new facility, which opened on June 9, 2012, can seat 200 people. There's an expanded kitchen for Sorrento's. The new dining room features Italian tiles and stone, has radiant floor heat, a fireplace and grand piano. We want it to be a one-of-a-kind destination for Thanksgiving and Christmas celebrations." The winery now includes a dramatic entry staircase leading to the elegant Italian tasting room and new indoor/outdoor dining, and event pavilion. Several acres of waterfalls, landscaped rockeries, gardens, pools, and natural stone bridges compliment Tuscan architecture featuring stone columns, bell and clock towers, and Italian fountains. The sound of live music enhances the dining experience almost every evening.

"As owner, I try to be the orchestra leader who hires great musicians to play the music and bring our guests an unforgettable experience. Another motivation behind this last project was to hire local artisans and stimulate the economy. This community is very special; there is so much incredible talent here. Ninety percent of the craftsmen used on this project were from Chelan Valley."

Sorrento's offers Italian dishes from recipes handed down through the family with current touches. Piccata, caprese, pesto, Marsala, gnocchi, pasta. Lunch includes sandwiches, an antipasto plate, salads and soup. Because wine and food are charged separately and their non-use of distributors, they don't need to charge restaurant prices on wines. Bottle prices generally run $25-28 for reds and $10-19 for whites.

Bob says he's not a risk taker (not entirely true), but he has created Tsillan Cellars without partners or banks. His dream of a five-star spa resort and Italian village will require partnership with a five-star boutique hotel developer. The Italian shopping piazza will include a green grocer selling local produce, deli, bakery, cheese, ice cream, and chocolate shops. "This is an evolution; it all comes at the right time. It has taken almost four years to get the necessary entitlements to proceed with the hospitality project. All entitlements to move ahead with the project have been secured. This will encourage a total immersion into the laid-back Italian village lifestyle. Each room will have a kitchen so that people can shop for Italian meats, cheeses, bread and wine and have a relaxing Italian-style lunch in their villa overlooking the vineyards, gardens and lake. They can spend the day touring, golfing, or in the spa. They'll dine at Sorrento's in the beautiful glass house." Bob's dream of bringing Lake Como to Lake Chelan is alive and well. It's an experience you don't want to miss.

Connie Adams/July 2012