Chateau Ste. Michelle

We've all seen Russian matryoshka dolls; dolls nesting within dolls. Chateau Ste. Michelle is the winery version; wineries nesting within the larger winery. The word "matryoshka" derives from the Latin root "mater" or "mother." Being Washington's oldest winery, Ste. Michelle kind of fits that "mother of all Washington wineries" idea as well. There's much more to this winery than most people realize.

Photo above: Chateau Ste. Michelle grounds in May

In 1934, two wine companies were formed: Pommerelle Wine Company and National Wine Company. Merging in 1954, they renamed themselves American Wine Growers. By 1967, the desire to create more than sweet, fortified wines led the company to start making premium vinifera wines. They called their new line Ste. Michelle Vintners. First vines were planted in Cold Creek Vineyard, Eastern Washington, in 1972. When their new facility was built, a French-style chateau in Woodinville, in 1976, they renamed the company Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Head winemaker Bob Bertheau's background led him here and, to continue our "mother theory," his mom got him his first job. He worked in the Ste. Chapelle tasting room in Boise, Idaho on weekends for two years while a pre-med student getting a chemistry degree. As he began his internship at a hospital, the inevitable comparison made him reconsider his decision. "I had to stop and say ‘let me think about this'," he laughs. He merged his chemistry degree with his wine interest, switching to University of California Davis where he received his master's in enology at the age of 22.

He also married at 22. "Karen was from Southern California and I met her when a friend and I were on a road trip in a 1976 Maverick when I was 20. We carried on a long distance relationship for two years. She moved to Idaho where we lived for a year, then moved to California and put me through school while she worked as a nurse," recalls Bob.

His first harvest was at Domaine Michel in Dry Creek Valley, 1987. He spent the next 16 years in Sonoma. Hanzell Vineyards, a 3000 case ultra-premium winery, hired him on permanently. "It was a great first job because I got to do everything including delivery, tastings and tours," says Bertheau. He worked with their winemaker Bob Sessions who had been there since 1973. "He still consults with them," says Bob. "He's one of the true gentlemen of the industry."

After two years, he moved to Chalk Hill which produced 60,000 cases of estate wine. His mentor, David Ramey, now has his own brand, Ramey Wine Cellars. "David's style was French—hands-off, less is more, natural yeast, minimum filtration. You have to monitor what's happening very carefully," Bob explains. "As in any industry, you carry what you learn with you. I'm a little bit of everyone I've worked with. I use a lot of natural ferments now and part of that comes from my time at Chalk Hill." He stayed five years.

Although approached by Gallo Sonoma, he wanted some time off. Traveling for nearly a year, he and Karen spent time in Australia and western Europe. About half the time, they stayed with winemakers they had met over the years. "I learned a lot not even working," laughs Bob. In Australia, they stayed with Wendy Stuckey and her family. Wendy is now the white winemaker at Ste. Michelle. "We always stayed in touch and the timing was right," says Bob.

Returning, he accepted the job with Gallo Sonoma and stayed from 1995-2000. "They are a great family and my experience was wonderful," says Bob. "My boss was Marcello Monticelli who had worked there since the 70s and had great stories about Ernest and Julio. We all owe a lot to them." As a multi-brand facility, they used grapes from all over California and Bob learned the art of blending. "A 2% tweak can make a 20% difference in style and quality," he explains.

From 2000-2003, Bob worked as head winemaker at Belvedere Winery in Healdsburg. "It was my first opportunity to take control of the style and team." But Seattle was calling. Bob was born here and his family still lived here. He had interviewed with Chateau Ste. Michelle twice before, but the third time was the charm. "It's a great fit for me," he says. "We're back in the Northwest with our family and I'm in a place where the needs match my experience."

Bob was hired as the white winemaker, then promoted to head winemaker in 2004. Wendy Stuckey is the white winemaker and Joshua Maloney the red winemaker. "Our team is as strong now as it's ever been," says Bob. "We have great winemakers and it's a solidly-run company from top to bottom. We want to over-deliver the price point—a $10 wine should taste like an $18 wine and a $30 wine should taste like $40."

Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest brands account for approximately 80% of sales of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Within the company framework, there are other brands as well: Snoqualmie, fruit-forward wines made in Prosser that have a slant to organic fruit and sustainable practices; Domaine Ste. Michelle, sparking wines made in Eastern Washington; Northstar, a super premium Merlot-centric brand made in Walla Walla; Spring Valley, a 5000-case facility in Walla Walla; Erath, Pinot from Oregon; Conn Creek, Villa Mt. Eden and Stag's Leap Wine Cellars in Napa; and Col Solare, a joint venture with the Antinori Family. They are also the sole importer for Antinori Wines in the U.S.

Single vineyard wines come from Cold Creek, Canoe Ridge Estate and Horse Heaven Hills. Grapes for other wines are sourced from 30-40 growers, all of whom have long-term contracts with Ste. Michelle. Ethos is Ste. Michelle's top-tier wine and has Bob's name on the back label. "It's my personal statement," he explains. Artist Series Meritage showcases a new blend each year with a label designed by a Northwest artist. The Indian Wells Series is the next step beyond the Columbia Valley wines. "People want a wine they can have on a daily basis and that's what our Columbia Valley wines are—consistently good, affordable wines. When someone wants to take the next step, both price-wise and quality-wise, Indian Wells fills that need." Eroica Riesling is a joint venture between Ernst Loosen and Ste. Michelle.

In addition, 15-20 wines are made just for the Vintage Reserve Club. "This is really a fun part of winemaking." Bob smiles. "The chains are unbound. We often create wines from grapes normally used for blending, like Petit Verdot or some of the Rhone varieties."

Chateau Ste. Michelle may be the "big mama" in the Northwest, but it's still about the art of making wine. Scratch the surface and you'll find another winery and yet another. Matryoshka style.

Connie Adams/June 2008