Cedarbrook Lodge

A hotel by the airport, you say? How unusual. You have no idea. In the midst of the airport strip, there's another universe a few blocks away. It sits on 18 acres, ten of which are restored wetlands, is quiet, serene and, hopefully, a model for other urban businesses.

In 2002, before WaMu's demise, they created a beautiful state-of-the-art conference center with lodging for their business meetings. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook green space and there is plenty of free parking. Chase inherited the site from WaMu and sold it to the Wright family, owners of the Space Needle, in September 2009. With the intent of turning it into a boutique hotel, they hired Roy Breiman as Culinary Directory (photo at right) and Mark Bodinet (photo below) as Executive Chef in November of 2009. Roy is a familiar figure in the Northwest having spent five years at Salish Lodge & Spa and a year as hotel manager at The Edgewater Hotel. He has worked across the US, in several European hotels and restaurants and traveled worldwide promoting the food and wine of Napa Valley.

Mark found his culinary passion as a senior in high school, attending the culinary program at East Valley Institute of Technology in Mesa, Arizona. Entering a competition sponsored by Careers through Culinary Arts, he won a scholarship to the Art Institute of Phoenix. While in school, he worked at hotels. After graduation, he was hired by Roy Breiman to work at a small luxury hotel and restaurant in Martha's Vineyard. Two years later, Roy left for Salish Lodge and Mark worked with him for a few months before starting work at the French Laundry in Napa Valley, where he stayed for five years. "Thomas Keller has a goal of perfect food. It's unattainable, but striving for it is the challenge. I learned a high level of execution and accountability—holding myself to that standard every day," says Mark. He returned to the Northwest in August 2009 and began working with Roy again in November at Cedarbrook Lodge.

Roy and Mark bring their passion for farm-to-table mentality to Cedarbrook. But what they're doing is above and beyond using local, sustainable, organic products. They're working to create a model of responsible practices for all businesses to emulate. "The uniqueness of the property, the ability to work on an inspired project and the support we have to do the right things are amazing," says Roy. Their work culminated in the June 7 soft opening of Copperleaf, a 34-seat restaurant in the main building, with 30 additional seats on the Waterleaf Terrace outdoors.

"We're developing a mushroom garden that will work as a water purification system. The mushrooms filter water, turning impurities into sugars. We'll eventually have mushrooms around the edge of the wetlands." They've planted a chef's garden (photo at right) with 15 types of heirloom tomatoes, strawberries, peas, beans, lettuces, beets, herbs and more. They're developing an in-ground composting area. There is also a water retention pond that reclaims gutter and roof water to be used by the sprinkler system, run by a satellite that locates dry areas and directs the water to those specific spots.

They've built on relationships they've had with local artisan producers, ensuring items come from responsible growers and travel shorter distances. "People in the corporate world are often neglected—they don't get healthy food when they're working," says Roy. "We're trying to bridge that gap. We use the same products for the restaurant as well as room service, events and meetings. Chef's talent is transforming dishes so they are beautiful and good for you." They make most everything on site—jams, dressings, pasta, sausages, ice cream. Wild Wheat bakery in Kent delivers freshly-baked bread seven days a week.

Dining at Copperleaf is an experience in dining well. Each bite reinforces the local/fresh concept—nothing tastes like produce and fruit harvested shortly before the meal. Flavors pop yet don't overwhelm. Proteins come from local farms and fisheries—hamburger is ground onsite from Painted Hills beef and black cod is used for fish and chips. Under Mark's direction, the kitchen executes each dish flawlessly. Servers work together to present dishes to guests with flair. The small (65 bottle) wine list is well-selected, with 95% of wine from the Northwest. Wines are selected with sustainable farming methods in mind and are organic or biodynamic or both. They also offer unusual beverages like the non-alcoholic sparkling Jasmine tea.

Servers offer bread on marble slabs, use bamboo trays and make chocolate using Theo fair trade products in traditional chocolate pots made by a local artisan (photo at left). There are no fiberglass or synthetic serving pieces. Banquette fabric is 100% bamboo. Leather menu holders, recycled and redesigned, are from WaMu days and the menu is printed on recycled paper. "We're in the world for a very short time; we need to build community and create a positive impact," explains Roy. "There's a great deal of waste in this industry and we want to set the example of what is possible while offering a real sense of hospitality." Mark agrees. "We do our best every day to provide the best meal and experience our guests have ever had."

Photo above: Dining room tables and art

Guests dine near a fireplace whether inside (natural gas) or out (wood burning). The patio has ponds on both ends and a small waterfall. Artwork from local artisans can be found both in the Lodge as well as the dining room. There is no end to the small touches found throughout, whether it's a tiny wheat sheaf on top of a linen napkin or a piece of artwork appearing around a hallway corner.

Cedarbrook is a showcase for responsible business practices that allow guests to feel pampered while the business remains fiscally viable. Now it's our turn to learn from the model and incorporate the lessons in our public and private lives.

What to expect:                                                         Cedarbrook Lodge                                                                                 18525 36th Ave S Copperleaf Restaurant                                                Seattle, WA 98188 Copperleaf Lounge                                                      Waterleaf Terrace                                                       206-901-9268 general 18,000 square feet of interior function space                  877-515-2176 reservations 104 hotel rooms                                                         www.cedarbrooklodge.com Two "24-hour living rooms" with free snacks A full gym with showers Local art 18 acres total, 10 of restored wetlands 5,500 square feet of outdoor venues A pond to view or practice your fly fishing A green lawn to roll or play games on Shuttles for fly fishing trips and to nearby golf course

Connie Adams/July 2010