Sustainability

In a world obsessed with immediate gratification and having everything "our way," is there room for responsible harvesting and eating of foods? According to local chefs and people involved with the fishing industry, the answer is not only a resounding "yes," but also "do it now or lose it all."

In June 2004, Kevin Davis (left) of The Oceanaire Seafood Room teamed up with leading West Coast chefs (California to Vancouver, B.C.) to raise money for and create awareness of sustainable fishing practices. The event raised $10,000 for the Marine Stewardship Council (www.msc.org, see sidebar), a group that "promotes responsible fishing practices."

In April 2004, The Fishermen's News (www.fishermensnews.com), "the advocate for the independent fishermen," held a one-day conference called "The Wild Seafood Exchange," where chefs, restaurant owners and retailers could meet one-on-one with commercial fishermen. Sixty restaurants participated.

Various groups are working hard on the issue, like the Monterey Bay Aquarium (www.montereybayaquarium.org) and the Audubon Society (www.audubon.org).

Many chefs and restaurants are also taking up the cause. Pastry Chef Sue McCown and Executive Chef Maria Hines of Earth & Ocean agree "Earth & Ocean has been actively involved in supporting the good work of organizations like the Marine Stewardship Council who deal with making the issues of sustainability known to consumers via their rigorous certification process of fisheries. Anyone who loves seafood wants to see it available for many years to come. By harvesting appropriately and purchasing from those who do, we can ensure that this great treasure will always be at our fingertips."

It would be easier to raise money, educate people and even write this story if the issue were less complex. But as with many issues, there is no quick answer or one that satisfies all parties. However, the bottom line is clear: if we continue to fish however and wherever we want, species will eventually become extinct.

If restrictions are placed on what can be harvested, how is that balanced with a fisherman's right to make a living and do it safely? How is commercial fishing balanced with tribal fishing? How far should first world countries go in regulating third world countries when those countries are struggling just to survive?

And don't forget the issue of farmed fish. Wild vs. farmed is a hot issue when you consider health and taste factors, prices and how it effects commercial fishermen. Farmed fish are less expensive and drive the prices down for wild fish. In the face of this competition, can a commercial fisherman afford to stay in business?

According to Peter Philips, publisher of The Fishermen's News, "There is definitely a place for farmed fish. Cheap farmed fish makes seafood available to populations that couldn't afford it before. The result is a greater visibility, and a greater appreciation for the nutritional value of seafood. What independent commercial fishermen need to do now is identify and access markets that aren't adequately served by the farmed product. The arguably superior taste, texture and consistency of wild seafood make it particularly attractive to restaurants and high-end retail outlets. That's where we are putting our focus." Richard Malia of Ponti Seafood Grill agrees. "The fisheries need to get more sophisticated in marketing wild fish so people make educated choices."

But even among the people who agree as a whole on the issue, there is a difference in opinion on the details. Philips feels that "…wild salmon looks and tastes better. Farmed fish has a naturally gray flesh that is artificially dyed to look ‘fresher' and the taste of the farmed product isn't as good as fish that live their lives eating naturally. We don't know yet if this will have any effect on our health, but I think it definitely qualifies as genetic modification. The scientific side is still up in the air."

Malia is slightly more adamant. "We will only serve wild fish in our restaurant. It's not to say that farmed fish is bad—it can taste good and have eye appeal. But it does not provide the flavor and health benefits that wild fish do. Farmed fish does not go through a full life cycle. They are fed pellets and killed early so they have more fat on them and less flavor. Most fish farms around the world are unregulated, so you don't know exactly what you're getting. Wild salmon has a 3-5 year life cycle and when taken at the height of their life cycle, they will be 15-20 pounds of healthy, beautiful fish. There is nothing more organic than wild fish." Oceanaire Seafood Room does not serve any farm-raised fish either. As Davis says, "The quality of flavor and texture is inferior to wild fish."

Davis sees both sides of the issue. "There are aquaculture techniques that don't pose such a threat to the environment. Tilapi, trout and catfish feed on plants and do well inland. Although farm-raising fish seems to be a good plan on the surface, there are issues to be researched. Fish have to be killed to feed the farm-raised fish (more depleting going on). To avoid disease, farmed fish are given antibiotics. This not only can create immunity-resistant farm fish, but the antibiotics can bleed into the environment causing problems with water and other fish. Farmed fish are also raised in tight quarters; the amount of fecal matter can leak into surrounding waters and cause disease. If farm-raised fish escape into the wild, you get mixed populations. This interbreeding leads to lack of genetic integrity. Long-term impact remains to be seen."

Philips says, "There is no proof—yet—that farmed fish interbreed with wild fish. There is concern, however, that escaped farmed fish compete for food with native species. There is evidence that disease which is a big problem in penned fish is transmitted to the wild migrations that pass nearby. Of course those wild migrations don't benefit from the antibiotics that the farmed fish get. And we don't know what effect those antibiotics given to the farmed fish have on the humans who eat them."

Researching to find answers is complex. Kevin Davis gives a good example—"It is critical to understand the nature of fish before pronouncing the best way to harvest. A few years ago orange roughy was plentiful because it was not considered a ‘desirable' fish. As other species became over-fished, orange roughy looked good. There were so many that no one was worried about depletion. As it turns out, it is a slow-growing fish and some live for 120 years. It takes 30 years to reproduce. Consequently, in a very short time, orange roughy was depleted. The same thing happened with the Pacific rockfish. Studying fish and knowing this beforehand is the way to go. But most fish are migratory (unlike salmon that return to home base) and are difficult to follow and research."

Kevin continues—"In the 1980s, strict laws were enforced in regard to endangered species. Although quotas, harvests, catches and seasons were implemented, it has not been enough to maintain or improve populations. Technological advances mean that more seafood can be harvested faster, depleting sources more quickly. State and local wildlife associations have to be more proactive. Out of this environment come groups like MSC, the Monterey Bay Aquarium and the Audubon Society."

Kevin's main objective as a chef has always been to locate the greatest sources of seafood (exotic or not) and offer the freshest fish daily to customers. The Oceanaire team realizes there is a basic conflict in their mission to provide the best, freshest fish every day for consumption versus the need to support sustainable fishing methods. Sometimes they offer a controversial fish (never an endangered species) on the menu, but they purchase responsibly, buying and targeting species from healthy fisheries. They work closely with local seafood purveyors and fishermen and know who uses the trolling techniques that are so detrimental to the environment. They like to purchase from fishermen who operate on a small scale and those who use hook and line techniques.

By encouraging responsible purchasing habits and sustainable methods of harvesting and fisheries, fish populations can be managed so we don't cause extinction of species. This means that we can't always get what we want, and when we do get what we want, we have to pay for it. Sustainable and safe fishing practices are expensive.

How can you help?

Yes, it's a complex issue. But with even a little forethought, we can each make a difference. And that small difference means that, in the long term, we get to keep making decisions (salmon or halibut?).

Connie Adams/Fall 2004