Matt Dillon

The non-strategic master

Looking at what Chef Matt Dillon has created (Sitka & Spruce, The Corson Building, bar ferd'nand, the Old Chaser Farm, bar Sajor, the London Plane), you envision planning sessions, timelines, concept creation. Instead what you have is a more "it seemed right at the time" evolution.

At 13, he started cooking while working at a cafe owned by his mother's friend. "It just worked for me," Matt says. "I wanted to do other things, too, but I liked the industry." At 18, he started in the culinary program at Seattle Central Community College, dropped out, then went back. "I was lucky to find jobs at good places. I worked at Salish Lodge when Chef David Kellaway was there, and at the Four Seasons with Kerry Sear. Then from 1996 to 2000, I worked at The Herbfarm with Jerry Traunfeld. All these chefs brought a lot of exposure. Working with Jerry was a huge experience for me and a very formative time in my culinary career. In 2001, I became the chef at the Supreme, staying for nearly two years, then took over as chef at Stumbling Goat in 2003. By 2005, I was planning and building Sitka and Spruce and we opened in 2006 on Eastlake."

The size of the Eastlake space became unsustainable. "We were too big, too fast, and I wanted to cook for more than 18 people. Our Melrose Market space is still small, but we can seat 38. I didn't plan it, but the stars aligned, and it became a necessary move that we made in 2010."

Rather than creating a concept, Matt lets the space dictate what will happen. "Originally, I thought Sitka & Spruce would be a late night sandwich shop. When I looked at The Corson space, it was old and had a fireplace. To me that said 'long meals, rustic, simple, people having supper.' The fireplace is in the middle of the room and you can't separate tables, so we have long tables. The space was available, so I took it." With bar Sajor, Matt thought 'woodfired pizza,' but it turned into doing all food in the woodfired oven. "Pioneer Square is my favorite neighborhood in Seattle. The space was available and I had some energy. bar ferd'nand was a discussion with Corson front of the house manager Marc Papineau. "We both like wine and wanted to offer something esoteric and interesting, not commonplace. It led from the space available in the Melrose Market, across from Sitka & Spruce." It's a wine bar and bottle shop.

All of Matt's efforts have the same philosophy behind them. "Buy great product and never compromise on that, know who you're working with and have a relationship, and make delicious food to eat." There is also a strong sense of community to all he does. "Nothing I've done is strategic; I'm a shoot-from-the-hip kind of person. It really comes down to me thinking food is meant to be shared. I didn't really have that as a kid, so maybe it's from desperation vs. inspiration. I've always loved shared experiences, whether it's food or music or art. I think the local food movement is beautiful, but it isn't my motivator. I never thought 'I want to showcase farms.' It's just how I shop and work in my community. I want to spend my dollars with people who need my dollars."

That sense of sharing extends to how the restaurants are set up with open kitchens. "There's no hiding. People aren't excluded from that part of the experience. When my staff cooks, they are seen and they get credit and thanks. It's not all about me, it's about everything."

Matt prefers to simply open the doors and cook with the ingredients they have. "I've never said we're any specific type of restaurant, other than Northwest because I focus on the place I live. I like to explore food. There are certain things we won't do. There are plenty of places to get burgers and a Caesar salad; we don't need to do that. We have no deep fryers. I'd rather do roasted vegetables and meat, just keep it simple. It's like writing music. It's in your head and it doesn't come out complete. As you're influenced, you change things; chord progressions and melodies. I don't want to be held down to cooking the same thing all year long."

Photo: bar Sajor

He sees himself as part of the big puzzle of creating food: raising, growing, meeting purveyors, managing staff, paying bills. "I don't have a big staff and have my hands in all of this. I still forage, sometimes for home and family, sometimes the restaurants if I find enough, and love to find edibles that aren't well known. I pickled 200 pounds of pickles we grew on the farm. My time is spent on all of these things."

Although non-strategic, he does stick to certain guidelines. "We try to serve the best product, keep the integrity of that product, and keep things uncomplicated.  We're not trying to blow anyone's mind. We simply want people to enjoy the food, space and the time spent with us."

Photos by: Dylan + Jeni

Connie Adams/November 2013