Grilled King Salmon Shioyaki

By Dylan Tomine

1/2 pound fresh Chinook salmon per person

Kosher or sea salt to taste

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This is, hands down, my favorite way to eat salmon. But because the ingredients and preparations are so minimal, the quality of the fish is paramount. Higher fat-content fish, like Columbia River spring Chinook or Copper River kinds work best. Summer ocean kings are also good, but not quite as decadent. The result is a savory, crisp exterior and fat-dripping, melting interior. The skin becomes a kind of fish bacon. My mouth waters just typing these words.

Yep, that's it. Just fish and salt. The secret, if there is one, is in the preparation. I like to start with a fillet that has the scales removed (easier to do before cleaning and filleting the fish) and all the pin bones pulled out. I use a surgical instrument called a hemostat to pull the pin bones, which run along the shoulder of the fillet, but needle-nose pliers work, too.

Slice vertically through the fillet, cutting 1-inch thick steaks and place them on a plate. Sprinkle about twice as much salt as you'd want if you were eating it immediately on all four sides of each steak. Arrange the steaks skin side up, cover and refrigerate for at least six hours or up to two days. Note: the further ahead of time you salt the fish, the more salt you need to start with.

Heat gas grill to around 450 degrees. With charcoal, use an even, single layer of coals under the grill and wait until they've just turned all white. Remove salmon from refrigerator. Using a knife blade like a squeegee, scrape the skin to remove as much moisture as possible.

Lay the salmon steaks on the grill, skin to one side, and if using a gas grill, cover. You can leave a charcoal grill uncovered, but be ready to tamp down flames with the lid. Cook for two-and-a-half to three minutes. Turn steaks to opposite side and cook for the same amount of time. If skin hasn't browned, finish for one minute with skin side down to crisp.

From Closer to the Ground: An Outdoor Family's Year on the Water, in the Woods and at the Table by Dylan Tomine. Copyright © 2015 by Patagonia®. Used by permission of Patagonia®, www.Patagonia.com/Books

November 2015