Blind Pig Bistro

Looking for the expected or a dining adventure? Blind Pig Bistro is a little of both—full of surprises, but a pretty safe bet you'll be happy with your choice.

First, it's in a small strip mall on Eastlake Avenue. Who thought that would work? Well, Sitka & Spruce owner/chef Matt Dillon was the first to get it right at that address, and then owner/chef Christina Choi with Nettletown followed suit. Three in a row? It's happening.

Blind Pig Bistro dining room, courtesy of Tiffany Ran

Second, it's unique. You're never sure what will be offered. With no food or wine storage space, food is delivered each day. Wine is purchased by the bottle or two or a case. If you enjoy your meal and the wine pairing, savor every taste because you may never have that exact experience again. That's a special meal.

As chef/owner Charles Walpole says, "We cook using the freshest ingredients. If the fish offered doesn't meet our standards, we don't buy it and won't have a fish on the menu. We have a rough idea of what we're going to do, but can always change it up. I'm a better cook when I'm spontaneous. This type of cooking showcases what I do best. The staff collaborates—everyone contributes their strengths."

Kitchen collaboration, courtesy of Tiffany Ran

Third, it's fun. Once seated, take a look at the chalkboards. You create your perfect meal. Keep your eye on the board: as the evening progresses, if something sells out, they probably have a back up dish. "The board gives us the freedom of erasing. It ensures that we don't waste our food. We won't put the back-up dish on until we've sold out of whatever we have," says Charles.

Fourth, it's a communal experience. "The best way to enjoy the Blind Pig Bistro is to share dishes. Sometimes people are a little lost as to what to do. It's really just a bunch of dishes, no entrées. Sharing allows everyone to try each dish." They've put into place the option of having the whole menu for $155 for four people. Each dish is discounted 10%. They'll also scale it down for two people for $65-$70. "We do this because sometimes the menu requires a lot of explanation. Trying the whole menu makes it easier on the guest, staff, and encourages sharing."

Fifth, it's a surprising combination of food/atmosphere. As mentioned, it's in a strip mall and easy to miss. But inside, the warmly-colored walls, wood tables and open kitchen are inviting. It can get loud, so if that's a problem, go early or late. There are a few parking spaces in front, and after 5 p.m., the parking lot behind the building discounts.

Gnocchi at Blind Pig Bistro

Perceptions of the Bistro can be misleading. "We didn't anticipate those fine-dining perceptions," muses Charles. "My idea was to offer high quality food in a casual atmosphere without all the bells and whistles of fine dining, like linens and hovering service."

Rene Gutierrez, his partner in the business, runs the dining room and acts as wine buyer/sommelier. "Rene does mostly Old World wines, with a few Washington and Oregon. As a generality, we think Old World wines are more food friendly and fit our price point better. Our food is lighter and more delicate, and better matched with French, Italian, and Spanish wines. We have lots of glass pours and keep the list dynamic by buying small amounts," explains Charles.

Becoming a chef was a random decision for Charles (pictured at left in front of the menu board). There was no food background in his family in New York, just entry-level jobs for him at neighborhood restaurants. He completed one year of college, then took a tour of the Culinary Institute of America. "The idea that the more repetition, the better you got, was very appealing," he recalls. He completed two years and worked in New York City for a few years. He moved to Phoenix and worked for Christopher Gross, creating modern French cuisine. He met and married the pastry chef; they chose Seattle for a fresh start. Charles worked with Monique Barbeau at Fuller's. Among others, he met William Belickis who left Fuller's for Salish Lodge. Charles followed as his sous chef. William left to open the original Mistral. Charles stayed for another year, moved to Avenue One, then 727 Pine. He then went to Mistral, where he met Rene Gutierrez, the dining room and wine program manager.

Charles left to help design the kitchen and open the catering program at Januik/Novelty Hill Wine. "I learned a lot about wine there. I got to help with crush, bottling, everything. But eventually I missed being at a restaurant. I left to work at How to Cook a Wolf for Ethan Stowell, knowing that I would be chef at Anchovies & Olives when it opened. Seafood has always been one of my favorite things to cook and I was interested in the Italian aspect. Being there made me appreciate simplicity and cooking what the market offers that day." He spent 3-1/2 years with Ethan, leaving to open Blind Pig Bistro with Rene. "We had planned something more ambitious, but it was taking a long time. When we found that Christina was closing Nettletown, we took the location. Within six weeks, we were in."

Along with their chalkboard dishes, Blind Pig Bistro offers Atelier from 5-6 p.m. with drink and food discounts. It's another adventure—guests share their preferences, and the kitchen creates inexpensive dishes from what they have in the kitchen.

With just 22 seats, the room can fill fast. They will take reservations for groups of 6-10 early and late both weekdays and weekends. "Things have calmed down, but people still call to see if they can get in. It's easy for parties of two to get in. We always want to save some seats for our neighborhood clientele." They're contemplating adding a communal table for those single diners and larger groups, plus a counter for quick meals and drinks.

Connie Adams/December 2012