Chandler's Crabhouse

These changes won't make you crabby

Change comes at a price for most restaurants that is far greater than the cost of new chairs or updated equipment. Old haunts develop a certain character, which become proven patron pleasers. Once change is initiated, the most stable of guests can become frightened or confused. Not so with Chandler's Crabhouse recent $750,000 overhaul.

Entering the redux, the greeter's station is now poised at the door replacing the outdated fish market display. Now there is no stumbling to figure out where to turn to get a seat.

The updated 1,700 square feet of lounge space has been outfitted with a new mosaic-tiled bar sporting an ice bar for the cocktail set. A soft stainless steel, yes I said soft, ceiling art piece cozies up the room, as does the fireplace positioned in a couch-lined nook. Glass panel doors give bar-goers a floor-to-ceiling drop-dead view of Lake Union, while offering up the ability to open onto the patio for a refreshing breeze on those perfect summer evenings.

Slate floors ooze the look and feel of the Pacific Northwest, adding a new color palate to Chandler's that is soothing and refreshing. The newly added 32-seat private dining room has its own lakeside views along with a private patio.

Beyond the cosmetics, the menu has shifted to lighter preparations, contemporary presentations and a diverse selection.

The night I brought out-of-towners from Wisconsin to Chandler's was the perfect sort of Seattle evening we all proclaim NEVER happens, so deck dining was the overwhelming choice. The look on their faces as the first floatplane landed was worth picking up the dinner tab.

Not wanting to start out with too many appetizers, we selected the chilled combination tower ($26.95), which contained Dungeness crab legs, seared ahi tuna and lobster spring rolls. The sea salt green tea condiment proved to be perfect. To augment, we ordered the shellfish steamer ($11.95) containing clams, mussels, and singing pink scallops steeped in a delightful ginger-garlic butter. Seeing as our guests were landlocked, an oyster course followed - with Kamamotos ($11.95/half-dozen) and Penn Cove Selects ($10.95/half-dozen). Other selections, taking an obvious departure from the previous fried food fantasy options included house-cured salmon ($10.95), scallop ceviche ($9.95), and tenderloin saty ($10.95).

It was hard selecting from the assortment of entrées ranging from Oregon troll king salmon ($21.95) and smoked Alaskan halibut ($25.95) to Hawaiian ahi tuna ($27.95) and Idaho trout ($22.95). While the menu is primarily seafood-centric there are beef and chicken options on the menu, which is created daily.

Asking our server what were the most special dishes presented that night, she recommended the scallop and prawn linguini ($25.95) served with spinach, tomatoes and saffron cream; Chandler's Cioppino ($27.95) brimming with Dungeness crab, prawns, clams, mussels and finfish in a sherry-tomato broth; Steak Chandler's ($33.95), a petite Filet Mignon with Dungeness crabmeat and a roasted tomato butter sauce; and the steak and lobster plate ($44.95) offering up a petit cut filet with butter-poached lobster.

Dessert was full of surprises and smiles. The brownie sundae ($7.95) is not only topped with a rich hot fudge sauce, it is served with a glass of milk. The mango-ginger crème brulee ($7.95) earns it's unofficial title "where's my crème brulee?" with seasonal fruits and berries presented in the bottom of a china serving dish while the brulee is "hidden" in the lid covering the presentation. Ooos and ahaas surrounded our table, as the item was uncovered.

Thankfully, Chandler's has not thrown the staple standards out. The signature whiskey crab soup ($5.95/cup), crab everywhere, and that banana cream pie ($6.95) remain.

Mina Williams/Summer 03

Fast Facts: 901 Fairview Ave. N., Seattle. 206.223.2722, www.schwartzbros.com/chandlers-crabhouse