Sophie and Eric Banh of Monsoon

"Food is a journey, just like life." So says Eric Banh and for his sister Sophie and him, it is very true. Their lives started in Saigon, they grew up in Edmonton, Alberta, and moved as adults to Seattle. Their food journey has always been based on quality ingredients, executed well and with high flavor. How did their lives and food intertwine to bring us Monsoon, Baguette Box and, in May, Ba Bar?

Sophie Banh (r), Eric Banh (l)

Their appreciation of good food started young and not in an era of convenience. In Saigon, herbs and produce were picked fresh by the family and time was taken in creating meals. Their mother is Vietnamese and their father Chinese. He was a successful businessman in Saigon, they lived comfortably and ate out nearly every night, being introduced to wonderful food. Their parents risked their lives to leave Vietnam to find a better life for their family, ending up in Edmonton, Canada.

Sophie worked in a bank in Edmonton. She learned accounting, but it didn't interest her. Her husband, an engineer, found a job in Seattle. They moved here and Sophie decided to go to culinary school. She was one of two Asians and the only person from Vietnam. "For our parents, cooking was not something you aspired to," says Sophie. "You don't risk everything to have your child become a cook." Eric agrees. "They wanted academic success, more like becoming an engineer. But we loved food without even knowing it." Eric and a partner opened a restaurant in Edmonton.

"Edmonton's economy was so bad in the 90s, I just wanted out," recalls Eric. He left the restaurant to his partner and came to Seattle. "We have a sister in Toronto," says Sophie. "We had all been talking and I said ‘let's just do it.' Our sister has a restaurant there and Eric and I started looking for a place in Seattle." It took them almost a year to find the right place. "I almost went back to Canada," says Eric. "We had a tiny budget, so it had to be inexpensive. I was living in Shoreline and didn't know the Capitol Hill neighborhood. We chose this location because we could afford it and there was a restaurant across the street that seemed busy. We thought we'd do alright if we had their overflow. We had no idea where to buy anything. Our wood banquettes were made by a friend in Canada. We used the stove from the former restaurant until it blew up." They opened February 21, 1999, but without funds, they couldn't afford many staff members. Sophie worked the stove, Eric the wok and even their mother came to help.

Monsoon Seattle dining room, courtesy of Geoffery Smith

"We're so happy to be where we are today," says Eric. "We have loyal customers and we don't have to explain what we do. We don't worry about people criticizing us. If they don't get what we do, it's okay. We don't take it personally." The biggest hurdle people had to jump in the early days was price. People assumed Vietnamese food was cheap. "We didn't really intend to be fancy," explains Eric. "But we know what good, quality food should taste like. Ingredients are expensive. Our food is labor intensive. The people who criticized either flavors or price have never had good Vietnamese food." Over the past 12 years, they've pondered on the best description of Monsoon. Eric has finally decided it's "a Saigon restaurant from District 1." There are eight districts and the great restaurants are in District 1. "We've learned so much. We thought we could just go out and buy meat. Mass-produced meat is inexpensive, but if you see how it's produced, you'd be a vegetarian. Life balance has to be good and we like that there are sustainable and humane options. We also believe that you should eat less and eat better. We don't need so much. We serve food we would eat. In Saigon, things weren't mass produced and it took a long time to make. If they see pho for $7 and then for $9, people there will pay $9. They know the ingredients are better. We don't want to compete on price, either. We just want to do good food." Sophie agrees. "Once people know your food tastes good, has the right amount of flavor and you make it right, they will come back." They make dishes they remember from Vietnam, using Northwest ingredients.

Click here to learn more about their food and future plans.

Connie Adams/April 2011