Poppy

We live in an ever-changing world. People don't stay in jobs for their entire career. Within the restaurant industry, a few years is a long time. Jerry Traunfeld stayed at The Herbfarm for 17 years. Is it any wonder there is so much excitement about the opening of his own restaurant, Poppy?

Jerry Traunfeld in front of his new kitchen

Staying in one place may be easier to understand in context of his relationships, which seem to be long-term. He named his restaurant after his mother. "Lots of people name restaurants after family members," he explains. "Plus it's a great name and botanical. My dad died about eight years ago and he was a great businessman. He would have loved to see this restaurant named after her." He met his partner Stephen when he was attending college and they're still together. His general manager and one of his chefs worked with him at The Herbfarm.

Plus there's the long-term involvement with Julia Child. "When I was about 11, I watched Julia Child on black and white TV," he laughs. "I was fascinated by that show. My mom went back to work and I thought I'd try making dinner. I'm sure the kitchen was a disaster; I was not good at cleaning up. But my parents were very supportive, even though it wasn't typical for boys to cook then."

He grew up on the East Coast and came to Washington to attend college—a year at Evergreen State College and two at Cornish. He cooked for summer jobs. He and Stephen moved to San Francisco where he cooked in restaurants and as a hobby. He attended the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco and graduated in 1983. After graduation, the restaurants he worked in took a decided upturn—Ernie's and Stars.

Returning to Seattle, Jerry wanted to be a pastry chef, continuing what he'd been doing at Stars. Unable to find the right opportunity, he cooked at the Alexis Hotel. After a few years he became the executive chef. He was in his late 20s. "I was managing five restaurants and not enjoying it the way I wanted to," he recalls. He taught cooking classes at The Herbfarm and met owners Ron Zimmerman and Carrie Van Dyck. They were looking for a chef, he was looking for a new opportunity. He loved gardening and plants. The idea of working in a tiny restaurant on the grounds of a nursery in Fall City with three months off during the winter was too perfect. He signed on, stayed 17 years and wrote two cookbooks. "I like taking care of the kitchen and the books challenged me and gave me ownership of what I was doing," he says.

While he and Stephen were in India on a culinary tour, he became very intrigued with the thali style of eating: a number of small dishes served on a larger tray. "It's a fun way of eating. You can have less meat while still getting a variety of interesting flavors. I thought I'd like to translate my own way of cooking and do it in thali style. There are lots of places doing small plates, but they're meant to be shared. If you're with a group, you may just get one or two bites of something. Even if you're with your significant other, sometimes you just don't want to share," he laughs.

In April 2007 he decided he wanted to open his own restaurant. "It was a sudden decision," he says. "It was hard to know how to start. I researched and talked with Ron and Carrie. They were very supportive; I gave them six months notice. It was a challenge to find a space. I'm so happy this space worked out. I used to live in the area when I went to school here. The neighborhood has kind of gone through a dim period, but there are lots of new apartments going in and a need for a good restaurant. There's parking in back and we've put an herb garden in that's about half the size of what it will eventually be."

"Most people get what we're doing, but some think it's Indian food. We have a tandoor oven, make naan and have a grain in the middle of the plate, but we're just borrowing the thali idea. We're emphasizing the flavor of Northwest ingredients by working with herbs and spices. I do have to pull back a little because I love Indian food. And if you want to learn about spices, that's the culture that will teach you," Jerry says.

Photo courtesy of Poppy: thali-style meal

Poppy has a 50s/60s Danish modern design. Jerry found a cabinet maker in Ballard who built the chairs and tables. "I wanted a simple, clean, warm contemporary-but-not-sterile look. I didn't want it to feel slick. Mid-century contemporary design used natural materials and there was a sense of craftsmanship," he explains. The landlord had gutted the space and Poppy uses some of the original brick walls. Sound absorbing materials offset the concrete floors, high ceilings and storefront windows. "I don't like to shout when I'm eating," he laughs.

Poppy dining room

"Opening didn't go as planned," Jerry says. "I wanted to get the occupancy permit and have 3-4 weeks. But the construction finished late, I had staff hired who had quit other jobs but had no work to do here. Then there was a mad rush to open and we got slammed—everyone wants to come in the first week. It was intense. But it's much better than having no customers! I have a strong staff and that's what you need—the right people. We're coming up with our signature dishes and having a lot of fun with the menu."

Jerry has the restaurant he wanted to build. A friendly, lively place where anyone can feel comfortable, with good food and good value. "I'm very excited about it; I just don't have time to think about it much!" And that's a good thing.

Connie Adams/November 2008