Spinasse & Artusi

It's all about the experience

Spinasse has just undergone an expansion to two rooms from one and added Artusi, an aperitivo bar. Other changes have been occurring since Jason Stratton (at right in Artusi) took over the kitchen as executive chef, but the charm and intimacy remain.

When Justin Neidermeyer and partners opened Spinasse in 2008, Justin asked his friend Jason to help "for a bit." "He let me write the wine list, help design the layout of the menu and hire staff," recalls Jason. "It was just what I was looking for—working with a small staff on a quality project and focusing on the seasonality of the region."

He left for Poppy as one of Jerry Traunfeld's opening chefs. "I'm an intuitive cook. Jerry forced me to consider why I was doing what I was doing. His way of tasting and experiencing food was challenging for me in a good way—understanding every nuance of a dish. He let me do a lot with the menu. My eggplant fries and some other dishes are still on the menu. It was thrilling."

About eight months later, Justin began looking to replace himself at Spinasse. "Justin didn't love the daily grind of a restaurant. It was hard to leave Poppy, but I wanted to head a kitchen." He became executive chef in April of 2009 and a partner in 2010. "For me, it's all about the details, both in the back and front of the house. Guests should feel cared for. It's the small things as well as a great meal that make that happen."

Breaking up communal tables was an early change. "I understand the fun of it, but it can become a hurdle. People should experience the restaurant the way they want." He moved away from tasting menus. "I don't need to define someone's experience. You should be able to have a cocktail and snack or a six-course meal. I started offering pasta in two sizes, the way I experienced it in Piedmont. It's a true middle course on the way to the main. Although our menu remains deliberately limited, we have added to our secondi, dessert and antipasti offerings."

New room looking into original room and kitchen

Spinasse's expansion was implemented for several reasons. "We've done well, but simply didn't have enough seats to always be profitable. We're also now able to dedicate seats for walk-ins. It's hard to tell people there is a two-to-three week wait for reservations. That might fly in New York, but we don't dine that way in Seattle. We wanted growth for our employees as well, adding benefits and vacation time." The original space feels the same and the new room adds 24 seats, including a counter with a view to the kitchen. In addition, a glassed-in pasta-making area was added.

When more space was offered, they didn't want to create an even larger restaurant. But they had a hankering for the beautiful corner space with huge windows. "We wanted a bar where people could wait for a table at Spinasse or come in for a drink and snack. We're delving into the aperitivo culture, which I adore. It's about connections, catching up with friends and the space you inhabit before you go out to eat. We want to contribute to that idea at a reasonable price point. Artusi is reflective of the diversity in our neighborhood."

Jason comes by his love and knowledge of food naturally and through hard work. His mother was determined to eat well despite a lack of funds. "We sacrificed things to ensure we sat down to dinner together; the table was almost sacred," recalls Jason. "That tradition of social eating made a big impression on me." At age 16, he got a dishwashing job at Le Gourmand with Bruce Naftaly. One busy Saturday night, he helped plate a dessert. Bruce saw his potential; Jason stayed off and on for five years. "I never knew food could be like that. Bruce set my palate in a certain way. Food through seasonality was another huge impression." He left Le Gourmand for Evergreen College and took a job at Avenue One, his first time in a high-volume kitchen. At 20, he was in charge of the dessert program.

At school, he created a high-level research study-abroad project that took him to Spain. He re-experienced social eating and loved the simple plates of food. "It blew me away. This opened my eyes to the Mediterranean and the culture of every day wine." He traveled, returned for two more years of school, then went back to Europe. Holly Smith of Café Juanita contacted him about a job. When he got home, it had been filled. He took another job, but a month later, Holly called again. "I felt it was disloyal to leave so soon, but sly, sly Holly said I couldn't say no before trying the food. It was over after my first bite. I gave notice the next day. I started as a pastry cook and moved to sous chef a year later. Holly taught me a lot about wine and service." Over the years, he has returned to Europe to reconnect. While gone, he saw the listing for Poppy. "I adored the concept and Jerry's such a cool person to learn from."

Jason's holistic view informs everything at Spinasse and Artusi. "Things mean more if you look at the whole picture. I gravitated toward the open kitchen because I love to see food going from a raw state to being enjoyed by someone. Seeing your meal being made adds to the dining experience. I think about why what we eat has importance and get inspiration from historic and current Italian cuisine. We still eat some of the same things that were eaten in medieval times. It's fun to geek out in that way."

Changes will continue as Jason evolves. "During my first year here as a chef, everything evolved to a different place. I've been in the business a long time, but am young in terms of who I am; my cuisine will continue to develop. We love introducing people to tastes they may not know, whether it's food or lesser-known wine varietals."

As if we needed a reason to return.

Connie Adams/July 2011