Toulouse Petit

"Previously accepted limitations no longer apply." This pretty much sums up the Toulouse Petit concept, whether it's about environment, food or beverage. Brian Hutmacher, owner of Peso's Kitchen and Lounge, has been working on the concept since 2002 and finalized the name in 2004. It's been a long time coming, but worth the wait.

Toulouse Petit host station

"My idea was to center a restaurant around a New Orleans French Quarter theme," explains Brian. "I wanted to use classical preparations but do some unusual things to create a foodie place within a comfortable, understandable genre. I also wanted to take on the steak-house model. Steaks are expensive, but you shouldn't have to pay $40 for one. We offer prime steaks at reasonable prices. We have the experience and skill in the kitchen to do this very well. These steaks are the real deal."

Brian (at right) feels that too many restaurants offer menus that lack range. There may be a few items you like. He is committed to a large menu and has been working recipes for the past seven years in preparation. Once he hired Eric Donnelly as his executive chef (formerly EC at Oceanaire, at left), they worked the dishes together and created more, bringing them to the level Brian demanded. "We have one of the most extensive cold kitchens in the country aside from sushi kitchens," says Brian. They offer a number of cold salads, chilled seafood, and charcuterie. In addition, they offer foie gras, steak tartare and what they term "curiosities" such as lamb's tongue and spicy fried alligator.

On the more traditional side, they offer gumbos that Brian feels would win contests and a true French onion soup. "We're proud of our procurement," says Brian. They fly in Gulf shrimp, blue crab and red fish despite the cost. "We don't pass the actual cost on to our guests. We want people to taste the difference when they get the real deal and know they are paying a low cost and getting top quality. Red fish isn't always available, but we get it when possible. It's rich like black cod but with a better mouth feel and I think it has a better flavor than halibut."

They buy 2-1/2 pound chickens that, when cut in half, are the perfect mix of white and dark meat and portion size. "For our fried chicken, we've actually decided that a game hen works better. You get tiny fried chicken pieces done homestyle, but a step up." Poultry lovers have many options on the menu between hen, chicken and duck. In their light-hearted manner, they offer a daily "token meatless entrée" for vegetarians. Burger fans will be thrilled with the beef burger, a mix of rib eye, skirt steak and short rib. "It took us quite awhile to try the variations and get the right ratio, but feel we have the ultimate burger. We worked on getting the right grind and seasoning for the lamb burger. It's really good."

Four to seven specials are offered each night and with over ten side dishes, there is no end to the variety of dinners you can create for yourself. "We have 50 preparations we could add to the menu right now," says Brian. "We have another 50 we're still developing. This menu won't get stale.

We have the most comprehensive food happy hour we've seen anywhere in the country and certainly in Seattle," Brian continues. "Happy hour food prices range from $4 to $7 and there are over 40 items. We do this for several reasons. It's a no-risk way for people to try our menu items and it keeps product moving. Portion sizes are great for late-night dining." They don't discount drink prices for happy hour but prices are identical to Peso's. "People see Toulouse and think they'll be paying top dollar for drinks, but it's not true."

Affordability is key. Most entrée prices are under $15. The only items over $20 are the steaks. Sides and steak accompaniments are priced separately, but are a bargain considering the quality. Sides are all meant to be shared. "We're aware that people are on budgets, but that isn't why we've priced things the way we have," says Brian. "We're not cut-rate; we're giving people great value. We make enough to cover costs but really aren't making a profit. We have no plans to raise prices. We're expecting to generate a lot of business and want it to be an easy decision to come to Toulouse."

Wine is available by glass, bottle, 1/3 or 2/3 bottle. "People may start out with oysters and a white wine, but then want red with their entrée. This allows them that flexibility," says Brian.

Intricate Italian mosaic tile floors, glass tiles on booths, elaborate metalwork and detailed woodwork on tables (stare closely at the image above) and the bar create a fascinating environment. Candles along the walls seen through the many-paned windows draw people in and create a warm, intimate feel once inside. "We've created a format that is texturally interesting. This applies to the environment as well as the food. We want to give people many reasons to come here," explains Brian.

Brian, Eric and Shing Chin* (at left) are the team running Toulouse. "I had heard about this young chef, Eric. I was pretty sure the first time we met he was our chef and knew it was going to work the second time," recalls Brian. "Shing is the closest thing I've ever had to a mentor. He was my manager when I worked at Wild Ginger. I knew I wanted him to run the front of the house. After he closed Ovio Bistro, I thought it might happen. I told him in spring 2008 what I had planned and he was in."

So much thought, care and intelligent design went into the physical space, the menu—food and bar—staff and feel of Toulouse that it seems bound to succeed. It's a great place to revisit a favorite food or drink or try something brand new. With their price point, it's basically risk-free. Make the choice and try it soon!

*Shing has moved on. Eric opened his own restaurant RockCreek in early 2013.

Connie Adams/December 2009