Tray Kitchen*

As fresh as it gets

"Let's see, what can I do with the vegetables from my half acre farm in Woodinville?" This really isn't how Tray Kitchen came to be, but it's definitely why you're eating fresh every day at Tray.

The real story is that Chef Heong Soon Park ("Park") wanted to open a third restaurant (he and his wife own Bacco and Chan) and he wanted to do something different from anyone in Seattle. On a food research trip to San Francisco, he found what he wanted at State Bird Provisions, and met the owner, Stuart Brioza (who is fully aware that Park has "borrowed" his idea). Tray Kitchen is a little bit dim sum with carts bringing vegetables around to tables and a la carte dishes (primarily protein) carried by tray, a little bit tapas with small dishes either cold or hot, and a lot of connection between cooks, wait staff, and customers. "I think Seattle really needs an experience like this," says Park.

His appreciation of that communication between kitchen and customer comes from opening his second restaurant, Chan. "In the beginning, it wasn't really busy and I was able to cook, then go into the dining room and talk with guests. We'd become friends and they followed to Tray. I really enjoy and value that connection. After The Seattle Times gave us a three star rating and Providence Cicero put us on the 12 best restaurants in Seattle list, it got much busier. It was great, but I had less time to talk."

As he began thinking about a third restaurant and looking at locations, he wanted to do something that put cooks and customers together and do it in a neighborhood setting. "I like neighborhood restaurants because you really get to know people as they come back frequently. And I wanted the concept to be that cooks have that direct communication. So Tray has a counter as well as tables. Guests can sit at the counter and point out what they want or ask the cooks what they have. They can talk about what the guest likes and make suggestions. They might choose a couple of things and the cooks will fire it up right then. Cooks have to be part of this communication to make it work."

Tray opened on November 1, 2014, so they are still working up to the full menu as conceived by Park. "We have six dishes on the a la carte menu now, it will eventually be about ten. And we have 15 items on the carts." There is a menu/bill (like dim sum, dishes are check-marked on the bill and totaled at the end of the meal) that shows the a la carte dishes. Carts bring around the rest and people choose what they want. "Wait staff can describe dishes on the cart and help guests find what they'd like to try."

Park believes that no matter what kind of restaurant they're in, people cook based on past experience. "Tray Kitchen is not a Korean restaurant. But I am Korean and my background shows; I can't hide it, but it's not up front either. I've hired people from around the country-California, the south, New York-and I want their backgrounds to influence dishes here. We learn from each other. Tray's food is northwest cuisine, Asian-inspired new American."

As mentioned earlier, Park owns a half acre farm in Woodinville, purchased in 2013 from Seattle Urban Farming Company, which designed and maintains the space. Originally, it was meant to provide fresh vegetables for his family (two children, 1 and 5 years old) and a place where they can play, get dirty, and learn the connection between the farm and what they eat. But the vegetables were outpacing the family's ability to eat. Their restaurants are the direct beneficiaries from this organic-certified farm. "The farmer is there every day and we alter our menus to reflect what's coming out of the ground." They carry some regional wines as well as Old World wine by the bottle, glass, and half glass, so guests can try different wines with different plates.

Clever is the best way to describe the menu/bill. It's mounted on a piece of wood that slides into a slot at the end of the table. That way, it doesn't get food and drink spilled on it and takes no room on the table. Customers and wait staff always know where it is.

Park looked at various neighborhoods, but when he saw the rendering of a new building in Fremont, he was intrigued. "It wasn't even built yet. At Chan, I've always wished we had a higher ceiling and windows. This spot is barn-style with high ceilings and lots of windows." There are a few parking spaces in the small lot and plenty of street parking.

Park's business school background (click here to see his history) has helped him run all his restaurants, but he was never a cook. After purchasing Bacco in 2008 and running it, he realized how much he didn't know and began attending the culinary program at the Art Institute of Seattle. "I worked at Bacco from 6:30 a.m.-4 p.m., then went to school from 5-11 p.m. I did this for two years. It made me realize what I had to change. I stopped using Sysco products and started using organic vegetables and eggs."

While very detailed and specific, Park is also very open-minded and flexible. His sharing of ideas and learning from others will continue to benefit his guests.

Tray Kitchen * closed in 2016
4012 Leary Way NW
Seattle, WA 98107
206-557-7059
www.traykitchen.com

Bacco Café + Wine Bar/Chan
86 Pine Street
Seattle, WA 98101
206-443-5443
www.baccocafe.net
www.chanseattle.com

December 2014